It's not really, maybe just bad wording on my end. When I move it by hand etc it's smooth, no snags or anything with or without the scan motor installed. Only does the "jerk" thing when it tried to move over the caps/cleaning area like it normally would at startup. Can hear it trying to move and see very slight fractional turn then stops and does it again.The gear definitely shouldn't be jerking like that. It should move smoothly so it may have a problem. Generic motors should be ok, but check they have the correct wiring to the plug as not all of them seem to !
The other thing I did wonder is if the head is actually staying in the locked position and not releasing, so on startup when the printer tries to move it to the left and right to get its position, it can't do this so isn't able to read the encoder positions.
Certainly will.When you get it working again, let us know what it turned out to be... We're all nosy like that.
Tracking is telling me it will be here Friday along with the spring. Still might go ahead and do that though since they are all new printheads and cost way too much money to risk drying them out, thanks for the tip.If it's going to be some time before you get the motor, you should soak the print head so it doesn't dry out and give you more problems...
Red light is on, carriage board and every ribbon cable in this machine is new. I checked they are all seated properly with no damage and just reran the Linear items in that sequence (did it wrong last time) but still the same issue.OK, now it's getting strange. I felt like the encoder sensor was ok, based on running the linear encoder step and you getting consistent numbers on the display. I would turn out the lights and look down behind the print head carriage and see if there is red light coming out of the sensor. I don't think you changed the encoder sensor, but it might be worth a shot. Also, before you change it, reseat all 6 of the big ribbon cables that attach to the carriage board. Before you reseat them, examine the traces at the end of the cables to make sure they are clean and undamaged. Insure they are in straight and square when installed in the connectors. I don't think it' the carriage board itself, as the signals for the encoder sensor travel from the encoder sensor connector on the board to the ribbon connector on a trace, no circuitry involved.
BTW, the Initialize the Limit step should be the very first step, as this establishes a zero point for all the calibrations. So, Initialize the Limit, Linear Encoder, Linear Calibration,
I did, but no acetone here so just used 99% IPA again. I did not see any scratches or ink etc though. Might just replace it since they are cheap, probably should have tried that first compared to spending hundreds on a motor but now I have an extra that seems to be perfectly functional.I know you said in an earlier post you cleaned the encoder strip, and I suggested removing the encoder strip from the printer and cleaning it with acetone. Did you do this? When you do, be very careful not to lose the tension spring. Before you clean it, examine the strip closely, especially around the end close to the home position. Hopefully you see something wrong, like ink or a scratch... IPA is ok for cleaning the strip, but it doesn't always get everything. Plus, depending on the grade, it may contain some percentage of water, as much as 30%. The encoder strip is a piece of graphics film, processed in water-based chemistry, and can be damaged by lower grades of alcohol. The strip is impervious to acetone and acetone will remove a lot more ink than alcohol, like all of it. Wet the microfiber cloth with acetone, fold it onto both side of the strip, putting pressure on it with your fingers and pull it through. Do this several times until the cloth remains clean and the strip squeaks when you pull it through. Wear gloves, both for safety and to keep from putting finger oil on the encoder strip. Then replace it and rerun the 3 steps and hope for the best! I've cleaned the strip on every printer I've ever worked on, which is a few hundred various printers, this way and never damaged one.
That is normal for most aftermarket ones as they are normally supplied longer than needed. You just cut it to the proper length and make a hole in the other end yourself for the fixing screw. The end with the hole is where the spring goes on the left hand side of the printer. The markings should go all the way to the end on the right hand side.Went to install the new strip today and it seems they sent the wrong one. The one they sent only has one side with the clear plastic with a hole. Anyone know a spot to get the proper one?