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One possible explanation could also be that Oracal's Tech Data Sheet says that material is calendared, whereas the 3M laminate you used is cast- though that would usually cause weird shrinkage more than anything, and would (most likely) show up long before three years had passed. Interestingly...

I spoke too soon. NPR was reporting this morning that the smoke's effects were now reaching as far south as north Georgia, so we're getting that now, too- to go along with our standard air quality alert.

Being in the Atlanta metro, we have air quality alerts pretty much constantly after temps get over about 92 or so. Fortunately, no smoke from Canada. (Which, I think, is also good news for them, cuz if it got this far, I think pretty much the entire country would be on fire.)

I mean that my pricing per decal might be off since I haven't priced out materials in a few years, because I don't do estimating any more.

Shop minimum, be $50, $75, or whatever. Only you know what your materials and time are worth, but until the quantity they want exceeds your minimum, you won't make any money doing small items like this. (Quick guess would be about $3 per if the quantity was large enough to price individually-...

Get new installers who can apply perf correctly (i.e. dry), reprint and have reinstalled on your dime (unless you can get the installer to pay for it- but good luck with that), and consider this a learning experience. Most manufacturers note that perf should be dry applied only.

Does your printer do use white ink? Perhaps print on clear with a white base. Many clear medias will have a polyester backer that stays pretty flat. I also +1 the GFC vinyls.

I'm with PWagner in thinking it's a media feed issue. It's been 20+ years since I ran a Mimaki, so I couldn't begin to tell you how to correct it, other than most printers have a way to calibrate the feed for various materials. I would definitely check that if you're certain the output is correct.

Duxbury's translator is the "standard" that will come with the software used for most engraving systems. And the only other thing I'd add is Type II is standard everywhere in the US except California, which has their own regulations vis a vis spacing, translation, etc. Fortunately, the Duxbury...

Wrisco makes .030" to .090" (I think) brushed sheets. My guess is this is .030" or .063" (hard to tell the scale) glued/laminated to a piece of PVC. Most of your aluminum/metal suppliers will have the aluminum, as will quite a few sign supply outlets.

Looks like an alignment/calibration issue to me.

I would suggest a couple of other things you might want to keep in mind... - Best practice is to never mix media manufacturers. - Anything outside like this, use cast media. - In the northern hemisphere, anything south-facing (or horizontal) will be exposed to full sun, all day long, 365 days a...

Yes, RapidTac or Prep would be acceptable for cleaning. A quick spray with your air hose (to get rid of dust) helps, too.

I posted a very detailed account of issues with DCS printers here about eight years ago. From what I can tell from these posts, they haven't improved in a single area. And I've always wondered what one of the federal inspectors would say about the printed copy- which is domed (not, technically...

If they don't let you use screws, then you're right- zip ties are about your only option. Get the sturdiest looking ones you can.

I think you might have misunderstood what I posted: I totally fault the tech who came out and just kept saying it needed new parts (and fried your motherboard). That person (or their company) is who should pay for the repair to the machine to get it back to where it was, at the very least. I was...

I'm not 100% certain what Mutoh's warranty is (been a minute since I ran one), but I believe the parts you mentioned as being replaced (other than the mother board) are consumables (i.e., they require periodic replacement, and that's part of the cost of ownership). That motherboard, though? It...

What? You think they're going to make it easy? Seriously, though- good luck!

Have to disagree with JBurton about it being a no-go with no studs, but it depends on what your customer is willing to pay for. If you have a stud gun, you could always pop studs onto the letters. Alternatively, drilling and tapping will work, but make sure to use a 10-24 or smaller stud to make...

I did a quick Google search and the ColorRip software seems to have been phased out around the time Windows 8 came out. But if you're still paying for a service contract with Roland, will they not write a driver for VersaWorks to use the printer and maybe give you that (or sell it to you at a...