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Thanks!

I have an ioline "Classic 24" plotter which sometimes fails to complete jobs. It will cut halfway through the job, stop in the middle with a blinking red light. I can press the "start/stop" button and it will begin plotting again, but them usually stops just before the job is finished. I know...

Yes, MDO doesn't last long at all here in Florida either. I quit using it for sign substrate many years ago. I'd rather stick with aluminum or stainless steel for my HDU projects. Why use something which rots on something that doesn't?

Sure thing! Thanks!

Thanks!

This is some of the 12'' block in progress...

Hi all, It's been a while since I've posted. I would like to know where to get a set of french cleats, or to build some, strong enough to support an 80''x96'' x2'' HDU sign against a block wall(my shop sign). I'm planning to laminate some .090 aluminum to the back of it with epoxy, as a backer...

Yes it was my cheap dumb-phone and I took the last photo at dusk which made it even worse. Thanks for the advice, I will check those out! :)

Thanks. This will be used to market our little subsidiary enterprise which is CNC cutting of parts, prototypes, architectural ornamentation, or anything unrelated to signs.

Just finished this one for the shop. The monument is EPS, 8'x6'x2', cut on our homebuilt hotwire cutter. The graphics were designed/layed out in SignWizard and the post card was rendered in Corelx8. The graphic elements on the sign are of HDU cut on our router, primed with FSC88WB, and sprayed...

Hey, I'm with you on the better components. I'll do some study on that and also on what it would take for me to get "UL certified". But on second thought, I may just hold off on putting LED's in my monument sign. For one thing it's light-colored copy on a darker background and spotlights will...

This is the main sign, I'm in the process of building, for my business. The lettering will be 2" thick 15lb HDU. The background panel will be sandblasted 2" HDU with acrylic latex topcoat and 23k gilded inset border. I was originally planning to spotlight it at night, but now I'm wondering how...

Thanks, I knew some people were using hdu in the construction because I saw some really top-notch ones in SignBuilder magazine using HAD and they mentioned "acrylic" too. I figured this, like the polycarb you mentioned, would not only help seal the back from the elements, but would help to...

Yes, Grimco sells the exact same thing I'm wanting to try... http://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Products/HanleyLEDFlexStripSeries

Thanks brother, you have a good night. :thumb:

Come to think of it, a couple years ago I ordered a 4x8 electric sign from a company in Birmingham, AL. Got the thing to the shop and it would not light. So I pulled the ballast, changed it out, same thing. Replaced a second ballast, nope. I ended up pulling the retainers off the ends and low...

I wired my 2-story house, this office, the shop, All the way from the entrance cables, weatherhead, meter and service panel to the last wall receptacle; 220V, 110v and some 3 phase all legally. I designed, built and wired this hotwire foamcutting machine. Nothing has caught fire. The foam sign...

This is a JPG, I can send an EPS if needed. The main copy is 10" high, secondary is 4", probably wouldn't halo it.

Ok, sounds about right. I just want to be able to build some into my new shop sign/s for now. I just cut this one out on my CNC foamcutter. And these are the graphics which I will make on my router... The LED's I have are encased in a plastic "tape", are 12V, waterproof, and put out...

Does anyone have any tips on making Halo letters from HDU and/or 1"pvc and LED strips "tape" like Grimco sells? Do the backs of the letters need to be hollowed out? If so, how deep and wide? How far do you stand them off? What size LED's Does a piece of clear acrylic or something need to be...