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I'd try the same cement you use to put trim cap on channel letters faces. Test a couple of pieces and see if it does what you need it to do. Likewise, practice your Google-fu and see if there's a supplier who can provide what you need. Be prepared for ridiculous pricing and long lead times, though.

I haven't done any sandblasting in years, but I can't remember ever coming across a vinyl that would hold up to it. Look into some of the thinner rubber masks, maybe- they'd be less expensive. But you get what you pay for.

It's not just the software that'll have to be capable of doing it- you need to make sure your router itself will actually do 3D carving. Off the top of my head both EnRoute and Vectric's Aspire software will do 3D carving when you purchase the plugin.

I'm not familiar with your software, but if it's not 3D capable you're going to be putting in some hours handcrafting a background like that. More than likely, that sign was sandblasted using a GrainFrame (or something similar) if it's HDU or just plain sandblasted if it's actually wood.

Was the 65 the air temp, or the temp of the vehicle's panels? I'd still think faulty, old, or mislabeled media, but the surface temp might play a factor.

Simple and to the point would be your best bet. And include removal instructions with the original invoice that the disclaimer would be on.

I've never seen a piece of machinery that offered that kind of performance. Even the most well engineered CNC machines have "slop" in them. Granted, they're in thousandths or ten-thousandths (or more) of inches- but they're still there. I've run Mimakis, Graphtecs, and Gerbers of the friction...

Ditto on hating that stuff! To your question: Did they communicate to you what they wanted ahead of time via email? Or did they call and give you the classic, vague "I need a sign with my logo on it" line? It's a matter of what the customer was sold. If they asked for one thing and you gave them...

I'd go with Panagraphics or something similar that can be bought by the yard (though I have no clue about it's suitability for latex printers), because I'd think that'd be a lot cheaper than buying an entire roll of material (which, in my experience, is the only way to get UltraFlex materials).

Are you questioning the background or the print? The material should be fine. Put a quality (and appropriate for that situation) laminate on it and you should have no issue.

Agreed. Or laminate with block out material if you want it truly opaque.

The Hilton Head Island thing was my first thought, too. I used to work at a shop in Savannah that did quite a bit of work on the island and their codes were even more strict than the codes in Savannah's historic district. Pretty much all of the businesses there with monument signs had...

My guess would be from wherever you found the JPG?

I'd try Amiable's website, but you're probably going to be out of luck. They're up to version 12 or 13 now, I think.

My experience leads me to say run far and fast in the other direction from any Direct Color Systems printer. They don't deliver on any level. Garbage product, garbage output, garbage company.

I don't remember the steps (been away from the Mutoh for almost a year now), but I think you'll find that calibrate the media advance on the printer, you can mostly eliminate that. Do it from the printer (User Maintenance menu, I think) and do it for each of your media.

Not running that particular printer, but we have five Seiko H2-74s and just finished over 35 miles' worth of 3M 180 and 680 in Fine Draft mode. The biggest problem we ran into was running out of ink. The printers ran from 3 in the morning until around 6 in the evening for about five months, and...

Just thought it was amusing. Happy Sunday, all.

I believe the answer is no. Flexi is described as "compatible" with 64-bit, but not actually available as 64-bit. As to some of the other comments, I can also say that the more fonts you have, the slower Flexi is to load. As far as the trouble that you're having, Flexi 11 (the last version I...

Honestly, I'd think the simplest way to do it would be to vectorize, assign colors, put a cut path around the outside, and produce.