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No, The FCX holds material down by vacuum. the FC9000 uses the pinch rollers. Wont be able to crease it properly though. IF you notice the FCX does multiple creasing passes. the FC9000 wont know to do that.

1200m x 2500mm is their smallest.

Not Hot Glue???

Yes, here i'd be back up and running with in a few hours. If they don't have the part, either they'll pull it from the showroom machine, or unluckly it'll be here the next day. Here also, if you're rural, etc, it can be a little more challenging.

just curious. hypothetically speaking, we bought out 1650 off you with a service contract. it's 10am, we have a major issue, we log a service call with you. I've described the issue, it requires you/your techs to come out and replace a part. when would i expect to get my 1650 fixed? If the...

As metioned. When your printers run all day every day, the service contracts are negligible. Becides, when running all day , every day and you have a breakdown. Canon will be there same day or next day with a box of parts ready to get you going. And if you're not on a contract, your issues are...

This is interesting, When i saw the Demos, the white looked pretty white to me. Do you have a spectro? i1 or something? Measure the white point. I'd like to see how "white" it is. I wouldn't have thought the resolution would have dropped, not that often you're printing in 600x600 though. But...

Id only look at it if the mainboard has been redesigned to handle more current. The issues with the S2 and even the F series with constant main board fallers from trying to increase the speed doesn't sit well by me. The FC9000 has it' own issues.

you can always do a nozzle check before buying.

oh damn, do you have a link for this??

https://www.flexa.it/en/products/cut#roll-slitters

I would say so. But if you have stock, go to a rep and ask if you can get samples printed on the stock. It operates like a regular UV printer in matte mode. in gloss it gives it 10-20 seconds before curing which achieves the gloss. principals are the same with a regular UV printer.

As i said, We (most on here) have only used 1 or 2 brands. and will say their purchase was the best because (some reinforcing opinions) Only way to find the machine you want, is live demos at a show room testing your own print files. The one you like may not perform as you'd expect it to.

If you've browsed enough, you would have seen comments like - Go get demos, get some samples printed and see the printer in action Everyone is going to be bias to stuff they've used. We love using the Arizona. it's because we own it and at the time, it was best in class. Write down your...

over 2 years old and well over 200L of ink used. never had that issue.

Does your shop do wood work, carving, engraving etc? if so then yes get the CNC. IF it doesn't then you're wasting your time. Check out colex. they're well priced also.

As mentioned. Look into onyx. and look at getting an i1pro3 It wont be cheap though!

Yes, this is true. when printing white and it's not checked, it will not print the colour behind the white.

Me too. Dell is great for this. there's not much to compare. they all usually have the same spec. different brand. .. you buy them in any config you want. You want a Xeon, you get a Xeon. You want a Intel Core, thats what you get. You want 16, 32, 64 gb ram? you choose how much. etc...

if you have a canned profile, recalibrate it. You can do that in the RIP-Queue with the Recalibrate button. then compare that print to the old one. Canned profiles aren't "bad". They're just not profiled for your machine so they will always appear bad. This is as long as the canned profile is...