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What kind of issues with MS31? I'm running them right now just to try them and haven't had anything weird happen. I had a head fail electrically but that wasn't the ink. Will probably switch to a different ink when these run out as my machine was originally delivered with 3rd party ink.
Yup. I like hemming, grommeting and banners in general. Folks buying them aren't asking for perfection. Size only needs to be close since they aren't going in a frame or having to fit a specific area. No laminating either which can be frustrating at times. My take on laminating: 5 hours...
ZIP Change is what I used years ago. They have the letters, tracks, etc... I think I still have a box of track rivets somewhere. I used Weld On adhesives with some installs.
I run a Mutoh 1624x so not sure if this will help, but we run 13mil smooth blockout double sided. IIRC we got it from Signworld. When that runs out I'm going to try the UltraFlex 15oz no curl.
Never thought about a tangential cutter. I'm going to look into that. Not often I get jobs with small lettering but anything I can do to make them easier is welcome.
For small lettering I use 3M Electrocut with the poly backer. More money but way less frustration.
And Tex is on point. I call it the Band-Aid weeding method. Grip it and rip it. I've had good results with Electrocut losing maybe a letter or two on large jobs.
Depends on how good the client is. Personally, I don't warranty client installed vinyl. You never know the install conditions, substrate or if it's clean and the skill of the installer.
Recently printed a wrap repair. Same file, same profile, same media/laminate etc... Client gets it and it doesn't match. Spent the next day chasing chasing color. Ran out of ideas and finally did a nozzle check. Exactly half of the Y channel was gone.:banghead:
What I learned: When color...
I hear you. You're stuck with paint, either on a metal or ACM panel.
If I were in your boots I'd use a high quality single stage catalyzed urethane auto paint.
Not that big of a deal, just takes some time with layout and masking.
Could go for the throat too and use Imron or an aircraft paint...
For metal blanks: Cut masks and paint with automotive base/clear. Pricey but will last.
Cheap route: Cut masks and use Rustoleum. Years ago did tons of signs like that. Zero failures.
Cheapest route: Print on cast vinyl, don't laminate then apply to surface and bury in automotive clear. I...
I agree with Rydods and Stacey K. For day to day sign work Flexi is my go to. It is simple and quick. Heavy lifting gets done with Ai or Ps but I'm migrating away from Adobe and using Affinity Designer and Photo.
There is no Mac version of VW. Only option would be to set up a VM on a Mac. Not sure you would have that functionality on an iPad but I've never tried it. There are some very knowledgable folks here that know more about VM's. Maybe they will chime in.
Sold hundreds of perf decals for pickup trucks, vans, emergency equipment etc, and still doing it with absolutely zero complaints.
Let's just say we agree to disagree and leave it at that.
Honestly, if they're worried about their vision being obscured they shouldn't put perf on. Even with optically clear laminate it is still covering at least 50% of the viewing area.
Although the laws in my area state "..glass must be clear from the drivers shoulder forward." Which renders the...
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