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Basically whatever you find comfortable, everybody is different. That's why they used to have all the mice out for you to feel at the store.
I always turn off "Enhance pointer precision" in windows. It actually does the opposite by trying to predict where you're trying to move the mouse to. It...
I thought it was the heads at first too, but this has been going on long enough that every printhead was replaced, some more than once, and it hasn't made a difference. I was pretty convinced it's the encoder strip but I haven't heard of the trailing cable being a potential culprit until you...
It's consistent all the way across, scan axis test showed no issues. Some colours are worse than others but most people don't notice it unless I point it out anyways. It's just one of those things that irks me since I know it's there and can't find the solution. I'll take a look at replacing the...
Our printer developed a slight vertical banding problem that should be an easy fix but so far the techs I've talked to about it haven't been very helpful. Debating replacing the encoder.
We had same problems with 2611, though we still use it on rare occasions. 3M 40c is our go-to for murals, only issue we've had was with cut graphics on a recently painted wall that they claimed was painted months before.
Either means your carriage circuit board died or the cables got dislodged (mainly trailing cable). Open it up and double check the cables are snug, if that doesn't work you might need a new circuit board or the cable was damaged.
We offer both, lots of Drytac Floortac textured with no laminate for more temporary jobs and Floortac smooth with a 6mil textured laminate for longer term.
I don't think ever I've used 50/50 for anything. Also I've had issues with clear focus and moved away from their products.
To avoid squeegee marks use a roller to install, but it's a bit tough to do on a curved car window.
If I must dry apply this kind of thing, I wet my squeegee and use a lot more force than I usually would. I prefer wet applications for clear or translucents for this reason.
But yea, usually stuff like that goes away after a few days unless it's really bad. Hard to tell from the picture.
Better registration on double sided prints. Edge holders that don't cause more problems than they solve. Heater vents that are easier to access for cleaning. White ink would be nice. A calibration for the scan axis (this might exist but I can't find it, the service manual mentions it though...
We have a box with a slot cut in the top (think suggestion box) that all the blades go into. When it's full it gets taped shut and thrown directly into the dumpster.
We've done it a couple times, had best success with cut contouring the perf, then laminating and cutting the lam offset from the perf .25" to act as your edge sealer.
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