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you might find a lot of people that will tell you they are horrible machines. I know of three people in my town that bought into their UV printers and had nothing but issues and we were doing a lot of printing for them while theirs were down.

standard engravers plastic. A lot of different brands out there. We run this on a rotary or laser cutter every day.

Its always fun to try and do new things but can get very frustrating. Have fun with it and the good thing is it wont be huge pieces if you gotta start over.

I like 3M but any of the other major brands will work fine. I can say if you don't have wrapping experience starting with a motorcycle will be a challenge. Get ready to cuss a lot and have some good adult beverages ready.

In reality the ink lines should be black lines to where light does not harden the ink in lines. It would take a long time for standard lights to cure the ink as they are not intense enough. Put a few drops of ink on a piece of paper and see how long it takes to harden. The light should not be...

We set all files in Illustrator then send the print file out to printer. Takes a few minutes.

if you are wanting it to be perfect the material has to be perfect. We print full sheets of "true cut" coro but is still not a perfect 48x96.

with the characters cut out would this not be ADA compliant. I have not checked in a while but we used to do a lot of ADA and the wording and symbols were to be raised at 1/32" thickness.

I hate doing wind slits but I have a food chain that requires them. I give zero warranty and charge $5.00 per slit. I have tried and tried to get them to switch to mesh and they will not go for it.

yes double striking will darken it. But looking at his test pieces vs the sign it needs to be a lot darker. No need to print on clear then apply I direct print all the time for the Air Force Base

you may have top double strike using Eco Solvent inks. Most traffic signs are either vinyl applied or screen printed and are much more opaque that eco solvent inks.

some ink on your belt wont hurt anything, we have spots all over ours. I would not put Kraft paper under stuff as it could reduce the amount of suction you have on your substrate. Some stuff it will be fine but more rigid substrates that might have a little curve it could keep it from sucking...

not sure what they are using on new printers but all printers we run in house have the Ricoh heads.

Mimaki makes one heck of a small scale UV Printer as well as Inkcups with the X5. We have had the Mimaki 6042 and 3042 for about 8 years and still on original print heads. We have been running the Inkcups X5 for 3 years and have not had any issues with them either. The Inkcups is a ton...

you get that a lot with static. What's the humidity in the room where the printer is?

Caldera and Fiery

you would need the skeleton that came with the machine when it was shipped to you to secure everything. We sold our JFX200 and luckily kept all that. We flushed everything and then attached all the brackets. Good luck getting anything out of Mimaki as far as documents and if you do they are...

In need of a new digitizer. Quick turn and good work

what is the color code your sending over for the print. I use either true RGB black 0/0/0 or CMYK 60/40/40/100 for a good true deep rich black. Try one of those and see. A lot of the black is turning greenish it is the color in the art adding too much yellow I believe.

Grab your white colors and select black. Takes about 1 second.