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in photoshop get a texture sample of brushed metal. put that layer underneath your artwork then set your artwork to "multiply" this will give you a close idea of wysiwyg. you'll notice that you may need an almost flourescently saturated color that is very light to achieve the proper color over...

there are quite a few out of china. any heat sensitive media coated with a CAB lacquer primer (there are official solvent primers) will work as a tie coat for the solvent ink. i did this for years printing with a jv3 with the heat off.

just got a beater safety speed cut for $400 and cleaned it up. great for repeating cuts that aren't high precision cuts. have a ts75 (festool) and a 10' track for very crucial high risk trimming. another great thing about a track saw is that it's not depending on a fence or some other forced...

make sure you properly clean out the head whether there is storing fluid or waterbased ink in the head. if the solvent ink touches water of any kind it will coagulate and lock up the head in seconds.

way way way too illustrative. the design looks mean but the name is "cute". at least start by cutting it down to some fundamentals. logos are not for showing off graphic skills. that is the worst thing you can do to a logo. it's my opinion that this logo, even if accepted by the client...

veddy intadesting... (may be it!)

to add to the ??? i saw some pvc today and the black was fine. ...asked the operator and he said the black only seems to act oddly on this heavy weight glossy photo paper (for a canon). maybe it's static (only affecting the black)?

we are about to chop a hole in the office area to move it in. then we have to put a giant roll up fire door over the opening. that thing is a spitting image of the old school CET FK512. i bet they have the exact same amount of bolts

no. looks like a perfect print. but seems to be curing before it hits the substrate. it was fine a few weeks back when we first plugged in.

if it's just wood on a budget, veneer is a good way to go with any of the straight epson based printers. i printed on veneer for years before i finally got a big flatbed. large pieces can be a bit tricky because of low warps that work across the sheet. you can also get really wood paper. if...

it looks accurately printed. but it's just a layer of dust neatly where it's supposed to be. and it's on both heads which to me points to the ink.

extreme UV ink newbie question here. we are still on and off with the new/used CET fk512. our new VW dongle seemed to scramble some parameters and that caused a few false positives when getting it a few quirks figured out. for the time being it's back to it's usual predictable self after...

if you must you can run auxilliary white carts and keep your machine in CMYKx2 mode. it takes some tinkering but it's not rocket science. if anything pour your white ink into a clear cart so you can visibly see the pigment blend when shaking the cart. as for leaving it in the lines 24/7...

are you discussing the "puky" color as the gamut warning option in photoshop?

i'd do one more test. have it print a vector gradient. one odd thing about these epson heads is they can be fine printing the "full dot" but the variable dot portion of the head's electronics will fail. if it prints a vector gradient cleanly, i'd start looking at the rip. if the vector...

please send a photo of the issue that you are getting from the machine. many of these issues can be quickly diagnosed by seeing the print. it is better to scan the print than to photograph (better focus up close).

okay. lots of reading and a bit of understanding. i'll be at the printer monday (maybe tomorrow a bit). i'll definitely need to come up with a quick way to switch between ink types on a few heads that's not too wasteful. one other newbie question. i'm assuming that there's no way to...

unfortunately, i'm away from the printer today. so the secondary tanks have a valve, open/closed, on them. that sounds easier accept would the pump be pressurizing the lines up to the secondary tank and when the valve gets turned to the "open" the pressure would cause the head to weep a good...

i'm wanting to pull some new ink into the machine for a spot channel. if i unplug all the pumps that i don't want to pull/waste ink, leaving just the one single channel/pump plugged in, then hit the prime button will anything bad happen? i know that there are check valves on all the pumps...

we haven't done it yet. but the CET installer did explain the process. we'll build a rolling feeder that we can move "behind" the printer to set up each sheet. i'm sure there will be a bit of waste between each print. i'd rather cut off too much and trim at another table than bother too much...