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both the slider and mainboard were sent to kent at macmedia for diagnosis. they came back "fine" but kent felt that the slider was suspicious because of a number of random symptoms. so he sent back the main board, my old slider, and a spare slider to compare. today i put in the "spare" slider...

i'd double check to make sure there's no yellow overspray. when the head goes over to the capping station, it spits a mist into the cap. constant build up over a day at this one position can show early overspray that really is undetectable on the print.

that's where i go next. right now, with 7.7rom in the printer, i'm checking on the over spray issue. so far the overspray has disappeared. but the jury's still out on that one. did you read where the carriage swings waaaay wide to the left when in uni-directional? any ideas how all this...

it's a good thing to look into, but it would have to be before the slider in my case. i've got two slider boards here. my original that was sent back to my by macmedia (checked out fine). and a new slider board from macmedia. the printer acts the same with both boards. also, in the earlier...

have you purged the capacitors on the main board via the front power button (printer unplugged, pressing front button several times)? sp models in the past had and electrostatic build up issue that would cure about 2% of the printers odd issues.

@ironchef (the link pretty much sums it up and earlier i had my lever up/down IR sensor quite working. in the firmware i set to permanently closed). ___________ the firmware tool is FWUpdate Tool2. it provides upload/download/FWupgrade tabs. the firewire board should be seated in that i've...

a few years ago there was a rash of roland sp models with electrostatic build up. switching off, unplugging, then pressing the front power button several times was causing a miracle cure here and there.

continuation from this old thread: http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96324&highlight=blank _______________________________________________________________ after new encoder sensor, taking out the MB and slider board getting them back from macmedia as "fine", the printer is still...

if my head could fit in there i'd be able to see them. i have one idea, camera phone. it can go where my cranium can't. 'bout to try that out.

no. not the main board, or slider board, and the encoder sensor came out fine too. so he sent me a new slider to test. i'm wondering if reinstalling the firmware might help the "printing nothing" issue. as for "seeing" the contacts. i tried that, magnifying glass and everything. maybe a...

i took detailed photos of the removal of the main board of my jv3 for diagnosis. but, they ended up corrupted and won't open. now that i am putting it back, i am confused about some odd labeling i did on them with a sharpie. please look at the attached photo. it shows the first/top ribbon...

i'm sorry if i gave some dangerous advice. i personally haven't encountered any issues in 25 years of using them other than them crapping out after about 3-4 years and it's loud. of course this was an ultra-low-budget solution for back with i was a kid and i've never had any urgency to...

for a quick/cheap/strong vacuum solution. build a plenum and instead of getting one massive beefy vacuum with ports and valves, hook up three to four of those tiny portable vac's ($25 each at walmart). four of those vac's each pulling an individual section of the table can pull like crazy...

http://www.sprayfoamnation.net/product/AC-250830-1

definitely it's a matter of ROI. if it's going to be used for two or three hours each week knocking out a part. or even one or two days a months all day long, get a shopbot or a cheap chinese cnc. sign making has really really forgivable tolerances. one thing to also consider is a light...

definitely floated. i use two pump tubes in the manifold and hang the head that way. problem is an ultrasonic gets warm, burbles all over the place with a mist that gets onto the print head pcb. YOU HAVE TO sink the head in isopro', sling it dry and let it set for 24 hours. any cleaning...

all i can report is what i observed. lightly brushing the nmp on the bottom broke up the clogged nozzles. i didn't shoot the stuff into the manifold. i've done my share of locking up dx4s after getting no where being gentle. the thing about nmp is it travels into the resin. much like a...

is it me, or has this whole board calmed down with the "my printer is broken!" threads? i think we are all becoming pretty good and fixing these printers.

yup. it is the "non-solvent" in HP latex that allows the vinyl to be bitten. odd stuff. used for cleaning urethane foam guns mostly and stripping powder coat. it feels like soap in your hand, smells like dank water. when coming in contact with dried resin it breaks it down to a finest...

last resort. NMP is a great last resort solvent breaks down dried in very much different than ketones. i'd just wipe in on the bottom. as for now, i'd suggest at least getting the printer set up as a CMYKlmlcSS inkset and then turning off lmlc in the rip and just print from two heads if funds...