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Have you tried different profiles, I know the Roland GCVP profile works for most medias, might have to play with the color settings though.

You can re-initialize, that will clear everything, you'll have to re-connect your printer in VW as well.

Okay, so if I understand correctly, it wasn't printing anything before you started messing around with cables, heads, boards and so on? But was running ink through when cleaning?

That's understandable as the fuses are blown, when the fuses are blown, it won't print. So if your sure no ink leaked onto the heads, and the cables have been changed and are properly seated, I wouldn't have any other suggestions.

Were they new heads and dampers? As the problem, at least from what I've experienced and heard of, is that when you remove the dampers, if they are still full, the ink leaks out into the inside of the head and fries it. The only way I've successfully re-used a head, is by emptying out the lines...

Thanks for the detailed information, my guess is there was ink leakage onto the head, that is usually the culprit, especially with those models, those heads weren't designed well, typically it happens when you remove the dampers improperly.

Yes, we would need more detailed information to advise solutions. What has lead you to this point, etc.

You can get the DTG Roland One, the only thing is that it doesn't print white, so you'd only be able to do light shirts, but anyways, for the BN-20 I haven't owned one personally, but have used it at a work place I did some freelance work at. The BN-20 is very, very slow, even compared to the...

Without touching the dampers right now, can you get access to the lines after the cap tops? If so, you can un-connect it from the pump and connect a syringe to that line and see if you can pull ink through, that is a good sign that it's not the head and that it's most likely the damper that...

Not sure if you can do this with the XR-640 or not, but you might be able to connect a syringe to the line after the cap top to see if you can pull ink through before you go through the process of replacing the damper.

I personally would say stay away and get a used older model, like a SP-300i or VS-300i. But if you're wanting it for T-shirts, might want to consider a DTG printer.

To get around that, you can drain the lines, that way there shouldn't be much of anything left in the dampers, although I recommend flipping it upside down when removing so if there is any spill it will fall away from the head, but at that point, you might as well just change the dampers afterwards.

Try to reduce speed and increase the heat settings.

Have you checked the damper for that color to make sure ink is getting to the head? Also, how old are the cap tops?

I'm not familiar with this particular printer, so I cannot say for sure. But it does sound like either electrical interference of some sort or a board is going bad. Restarting might help it because you are cutting the power for a moment and resetting it and once you get going, whatever the cause...

Sounds like interference. You might want to check all the connections. Either something is loose and making a poor connections, damaged or a board might be on the way out.

Looks like interference, check all the head cables to make sure everything is good and there isn't a bunch or ink or bent connectors.

No it doesn't, but needs to be at the top in the layer, at least for Illustrator and Versaworks to see it as a cut contour. I don't use Onyx, but was throwing out similar issues I've had to see if it might help.

I know in illustrator if it isn't the top layer it doesn't work, that is why I mentioned it. I don't use Onyx, but does it take eps files, as you could try saving it as a eps in Corel and see if you get a different result.

This might be stupid, but did you make sure it is the top layer.