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As mentioned above, we'd need more information, like what printer you are using, the media, profile, etc. This way we can give you better answers, but by first glance with this very limited info, I'd say it's a heat and speed issue.

After you do the above and if it's still not the greatest you can connect a syringe to the line after the capping station and try to pull ink through, that usually helps completely revive it if the head soak didn't get the full thing and the head is still good. I would also replace the capping...

Glad to hear.

That's what our issue was, although ours are in Celsius as Canadian.

Small screw driver, I know very tight space, lol.

Correct, and same kind of thing on the backside. Just curious, if you haven't actually accessed the board yet, how do you know it needs replacing?

I don't have instructions, but I had to change on of mine about a year ago. What I did was remove the front lower panel, as well as the back lower panel then you'll have access from both sides. make sure you label all the wires before unplugging (I used masking tape and wrote what number slot...

Did you retest the fuses just to make sure they weren't blown? Check with a multimeter just to confirm, if they are okay, then proceed to the next step. When you did the swap test, did you plug the MY in the CK slots and the CK head into the MY slots to see if anything printed that way? If so...

If the cables look damaged or have ink all over them, then that might be a good thing. And depending what you had done to the machine in those 3 days, it is possible for it to clog that quick, but you may want to test the fuse as well, just to make sure you didn't blow it in the process of...

If that's the case, then right there you have your answer, you'll need a new head. Also, I'm not familiar with this model, does it have 1 or 2 heads, as I'd recommend replacing all of them based on that test print you showed.

Bonjour, je pense, si sais la maime comme le SP-300V, sa nettoyage pas automatiqement, tu doit la faire toi maime pour se model.

Just the head to start, that way it tricks the board and makes it think it's a different color, if you still have the other color that you switched with still printing and the magenta still not, then you know it's the head and you'll need to replace.

I'm not 100% sure, as we got ours already dual CMYK, but I believe it's something in the firmware that needs to be changed, or maybe it's as simple as a setting in the service menu after you clean out the lines.

If that doesn't work, try the GCVP profile, if small details and small in size, I would recommend High quality.

That is because of the profile, just as it states one is standard quality and the other high quality, so it is printing slower on the high quality and there are probably some other setting inside the profile to give the better look.

Have you played around with different profiles, print speeds and heat settings? What are you currently using and what media?

Maybe I missed something, but doesn't it lock in the media by pushing it down, not pulling it up? I haven't used a BN-20 in a few months, so cannot remember. Also, this video might help, not sure:

In Versaworks, you go into the Printer Settings under the printer tab, then you should be able to add it there, not sure if that's via USB or ethernet, as I am not familiar with that model.

Hopefully not a bad print head, but you should be able to change the inks for the menu, if it wasn't allowing the inks, you would get a different message, saying put in proper inks. When you pull down the lever, does it do anything? As the head or cut carriage should go across to check to make...

Have you tried restarting the utility, VersaWorks and the Printer? Some times they stop talking to one another.