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You've got a lot of limitations that you just can't do for $500. Like Gino said, get them done at Staples or even a FedEx office (ours has their own "sign" shop). It's not just the printer - you can find used ones on eBay for under a grand - it's the materials that go with them; ink, laminate...
Yep.. if I had an Edge :-) I can hit pretty close to most with my Mutoh... visited the customer today - a full hour and a half ride - to see what, in fact, they want to do. And none of their apparatus match now, so they aren't sure after hearing all the options. Some days I really hate my job..
Yeah, I don't think so either. The company wants to match the paint color on their existing trucks with some striping on new white trucks. I told them it was going to have to be printed at X cost and they balked... what else is new. The 'Lime Green/Lemon Yellow' from both Avery and 3M are the...
That's diamond grade, not engineer grade. That I have (and it really isn't a lime green). I need an engineer grade for striping on a fire support vehicle. But thanks for that link.
As the title says, a true lime green. Not a lime yellow. I've never seen one and I have a feeling I'll wind up printing something for a customer that says that it absolutely has to be the green and not yellow.
I only mess with this stuff on emergency vehicles. It really isn't meant to be cut as cut letters/numbers. The few times I've had that request I've overlaid a non-reflective vinyl on the top, reverse weed. You could try feeding it in upside down, with the adhesive side up and cut in reverse...
You'll need to check with the parks service you're dealing with. If it's a City or County entity, there is more than likely a spec for color that they need to stick to. That will determine what you can use in terms of whether they are going to want it painted, carved or both. With the park...
^ What Billct2 said. Excellent idea for vans like these. A level won't do you any good - you need the body perfectly parallel to the ground.. exceedingly difficult to do.
Maybe.. I just can't figure out why it's only happening on the prints that are on the body and not the glass. I would think that if it's a laminate failure as others have posted about the 8518 that it would have shown on everything that's been laminated and cut.
Image on the left is the decal on the window. No marks at all around the edge. The image on the right has these marks all around the edge - they are not drips. These have formed over time.
Squad cars, two separate decals, printed at the same time. Printed on 3M 680C and overlam with 8518 after waiting about 12 hours. One decal on a window is fine.. the other on the car body is starting to show the 'delamination' or 'moldy' look on the edges. And all the cars have it, just not this...
If (and you should) you have a copy of the original PO and the current PO with the same number, and his name is on both, photocopy (or photograph) them together and send it to him and simply ask - your mistake, what do you want to do?
Perhaps. I use Flexi as my RIP - and that's all I use it for. I've been using Corel since v3.. I don't recall Flexi ever starting out as a RIP program, but a basic design and cut. My cutting is done through CoCut as a plug-in..
I'm constantly surprised that since Corel is used primarily by the graphics industry that they haven't developed a RIP that integrates into the program. That alone would save thousands from having to purchase a stand-alone RIP program.
They layer. Main panel is the lime yellow, red pieces are applied translucent, at least for the DG3 level chevrons. Support level vehicles are printed. Either one is then a "one piece" panel, but yes, no wider than 48".
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