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See attached file. Please post your results...

The first thing you need to do is to clear the lines between the cap and the pump. Ink remaining in the cap is an indication of a clogged line. Once that is done, post the results.

OK, clarity of what you are doing is very important when troubleshooting remotely. You need to pull ink through the dampers themselves, not the ink line, so you are getting them full of ink and getting the air out of the ink lines. The dampers need to be about 3/4 full of ink at a minimum. The...

Are you tightening the screws after making each adjustment? If you aren't, as soon as the heads cap, the pressure from the capping station will move the heads.

There is almost always air in the top of the ink cavity in the dampers and it is OK. The important thing is the output from that cavity is completely covered with ink. I would check the cap, making sure it is clean and correctly aligned to the head. Is the new cap OEM or aftermarket? Captops are...

Pulling ink through the dampers is a very valid technique for determining problems and also shortening up ink charging. You said the ink retreated back into the line after removing the syringe from the damper. This should not happen. It is an indication you have an air leak. Did you replace the...

It is most likely your problem...

Always more than one way to solve some problems. Glad to hear!

Do you have a way to replace the transistor?

You will definitely want to see it print yourself. I would suggest the following printing tests. A test print (nozzle check), the fill test in service mode, and the attached Onyx quality test printed at a standard setting - 720x720 8 pass bidirectional. See the attached file to enter service...

You have issues with 4 heads - black, yellow, light cyan (multiple missing nozzles) and light magenta (heavy deflection). Were the test prints done while you were there and at what settings? You are looking at least $2500 to bring it up to spec, and that is just heads, dampers and labor. Not...

You probably have a shorted transistor. Do you have a multimeter?

I know you said you checked the head carriage for anything hanging down. Did you check the cut carriage also?

The simplest way to do this is to disconnect the cap lines from the pump and let the ink fill run its course. This way it goes through the motions without wasting your ink.

Make it easy and run a tube from the second waste port to the waste tank. Easier than trying to find a cap that would be secure.

You are welcome!

Jester1167, that's the nice thing about being able to flip them. Being a tech, I actually remove the strip from the printer, but that can be scary for a lot of operators. We all trying to give the best advice we know! Even with all the experience I have, I still pick up things from the posts here!

I agree with Jester1167 this does not look like an encoder induced problem. And I agree with KatePhillips the deflecting nozzles are the most likely culprit. As the OP is planning to clean the encoder strip again, I have offered him the method I have used time and again and is a integral part...

This is the best way to do this. You will need gloves, a clean microfiber cloth and acetone. Yes, acetone... It will not damage the encoder strip in any way. 91% alcohol is ok, but doesn't get all the ink off. NEVER use alcohol less than 91% as the water content in 70% alcohol will soften the...

So, do we have an update on this issue?