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Ah that makes sense. In that case I would suspect blown transistors on the main board. If the fuses are good, it's usually the transistors that are fried.

The only thing I haven't seen mentioned here is the o-rings. Did you change them when you changed the dampers? Also, sometimes on these older models you need to clip a little bit of the ink line off so the o-ring makes a good seal. The old o-ring can create an indentation in the ink line that...

Did you change the dampers along with the head? If not I would start there. I've also been seeing these older models start to need new ink line and o-rings. Whenever I have a weird ink flow issue on them, if the damper doesn't fix it, I just replace the entire line and all the o-rings at each...

Honestly $5k is a decent down payment on a new machine and I wouldn't value the SP540 that high. In perfect working condition I would say the SP540 is worth closer to $3k. If it needs both heads closer to $1,500. Most of the parts for that machine are going to available for a while except the...

It's a good machine especially for what you're using it for. The main thing you want to look for is the quality of the heads. Have them print a nozzle check in service mode. The heads can fire multiple sized dots and the regular nozzle check only shows the largest. The service mode one prints...

I wouldn't worry about setting it too high. If the nozzles start to clog you can always run a cleaning to recover them and then lower the setting. All a spitting does is make it so any nozzles not being used at the moment are being fired into the spit sponge once in a while so that when they are...

I agree it's probably one or both the encoder strip being dirty or damaged and/or worn out pinch rollers.

Exactly. Although a lot of the time they are still good or very close once you reinstall the head.

Sounds more like a worn out cap top to me. It's probably just not sealing up well anymore so cleanings won't do anything.

I've always just used a gloss vinyl profile and it seems to work. The 3m ones seem to work the best.

Unfortunately it's probably bad news. Best case scenario is the cable between the servo board and main board has somehow became disconnected. Worst case is the servo board and/or main board are failing. You're probably going to want to get a tech.

Go into the menus and scroll all the way to the bottom. If you have menus that have the # symbol in front of them, you're in service mode. Also, the fact that it's printing the 2 colors along with the white head indicates that you probably are in service mode as well.

It won't hurt anything. It's worth a shot.

It's possible for sure. Mutoh cards are notoriously finicky. If you contact your ink supplier they should be able to put in a warranty request and Mutoh will send you a new card.

Sounds like you might need the cap top. The cap top has to seal with the head so the pump can pull ink down. If you ran a fill up and ink didn't flow into the head, the cap probably isn't sealing.

Sub tank hi means the machine was expecting the hi sensor to flag but it times out. This usually means either the sensor is malfunctioning, the flag that flags is has been knocked out of place, or ink isn't flowing into the tank. Have you taken a look at the sub tanks yet?

If you just installed a new head you need to run all of the alignments in service mode. If the print direction in your images is left and right, your vertical alignment is off which is a physical adjustment of the head position.

Even two brand new printers one serial number apart will have slightly different results. Calibrating the printers to print with similar results requires custom profiling.

That's the way of these machines! One little bit of air getting in throws it all off. Glad to hear it was something simple!

Looks like the official spec is 16 mil including the liner. But you might be able to get it to work.