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I don't have much experience with Oracal printed vinyl. We've used a TON of their 651 series on fleet wrap lettering, and it's held up to the Texas heat and sun well. I still see vehicles I wrapped 5 years ago looking good. But for printed graphics, we've only used Avery's 1005 SC with the DOL...

Lexjet.com has a couple great systems of stretcher bars in pre-cut sizes. Doesn't help if you need custom sizes, but they're great. Used them a number of times in the past. http://www.lexjet.com/smartfilteritem.aspx?producttypeid=6

Have you tried any of the felt replacement pads? I've been using monkey strips, and they're doing good. But I'm not doing all-day installs either.

Somebody converted a font to outlines and didn't pay attention. Whoops!

I've done plenty of wraps/partial wraps outside in the Texas summer heat, where it cools down to the upper 90s at night. The nice thing is that with so much heat, you can print your graphics at 1/4 scale. Just pulling the vinyl off the backer will stretch it out to full size. :Big Laugh I am...

If you "have to" cut on a roller... ...use one of these!

NEVER EVER EVER CUT ON A ROLLER! AAAAUUUUUUGH! :banghead::frustrated: But, I'll definitely have to keep that in mind. Haven't had that problem at my current job (b/c I'm the only one in the printing dept. :Big Laugh), but you never know about the future.

Good for you. That's a great practice. And you should be compensated for your work. If the customer did not have signage as part of the scope of your work, that would be extra work and extra cost. But if the customer paid you for "print ready" artwork for a specific project - like a banner for...

Even with print jobs, this is a bad call. If I have to go in and edit anything on a brochure, for instance, sloppy design work will make it difficult/impossible for me to make those quick fixes. I don't mind shoving work back to the designer, but often times they're slow to make changes...

So, how often do you think you'd have to change blades? I'd hate to see what comes up when you try a contour cut!

As long as it's not super thin lettering, I don't see any issues. The only trouble I've had with using cut wrap vinyl (Avery 1005 SC) was with pinstripes or thin tails. But that could also be an installation issue, not a problem with the vinyl itself.

From the picture, I'm assuming you applied the vinyl to the back side of the sign in order to give it that appearance. Am I correct?

I don't guess you have a large format scanner to digitize it and make a clean vector? If you going through all the trouble of hand tracing it to recut it anyway, I might offer the customer this service.

Other than the 2 whites, the panel sign still looks good. The liquor sign looks like the red needs some help, but it's still perfectly legible after 30 years. Looks like good quality signs.

That's the image that came to mind, but I've learned to not assume I understand 100% of the time.

I haven't heard "potato chip" used as a verb in this way before. Definition please?

Maybe this will help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3EHb-iBceI

I would also try to use the chrome stripe as a design element. It looks great, so why cover it up? Also, I try to avoid wrapping the metal trim around the door. In my limited trailer wrapping experience, that area is a pain to wrap well and keep on there long term. Maybe somebody here has a...

This is probably painted white dibond, not raw aluminum. But it's hard to tell from the pic.

This is what I was thinking. If the material is wrapped all the way around to the back side, IF it lifts, it at least won't be visible. But I would think that not having the cut edge of the vinyl on the edge of the board would help it not lift.