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I know it, but I don't know the name. It's one of those crappy fonts from the 90s that you'd probably have put on a home-printed flyer or greeting card.

Change your colour management setting from Pre-Press US to Sign & Display, then try printing K100. That's what we do on our XC-540 and we get great blacks. We sometimes add equal amounts of CMY to go a bit darker but K100 is usually fine for most things.

Uhh, be careful with your torch/heat gun?

We were doing a site visit today and found this next door...

Well first off, doesn't your RIP have an option to scale the print? It sounds like that would solve your problem, assuming your RIP can interpret the transparencies correctly (which often isn't the case). I don't think PDF or any other vector formats can reliably be used to transfer artwork...

You could just try dialing the ink limits way down. Print a series of squares from 10% to 100% of each ink colour to see where it starts pooling, then set your limits accordingly. This method may take a bit of trial and error but we actually did the same thing when we tried printing on butcher...

Try the Avery profiles on your Oracal material. Using a profile for a different brand usually works fairly well in my experience, as long as the materials are similar.

[FONT=Verdana] We tried that trick once and it didn't work with whatever brand we were using at the time - Mactac most likely. Most frosting I've encountered is extremely difficult to remove - I spent 2 hours removing frosting from a single glass door once.

Tap the back of the letters, insert studs, add spacers. Why would you need to drill through the front of the letters? EDIT: You could also insert screws through the back of the e-panel, through the spacer and into the tapped back side of the letter.

This

Preach it, brother Gino! I open those threads sometimes with no intention of helping, but just to gawk at the appalling fonts that I know will be inside.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is exactly the process OP described in his original post, which he said isn't working. Another good approach I've found that doesn't require any manual editing is to make a copy of the whole image, send it to the back and then offset by about 1/16" or 1/32" if...

+1. Our Grimco delivery driver knows everything about everyone.

Was trying to remove some indoor foam letters from the wall in our store. Just double-sided tape so I thought at least the foam would break and they'd come off fairly easily with a bare-handed yank. Note these foam letters had metal octolux laminate on the face. So I grabbed one arm of the...

I'm sure the good design jobs are out there, but they do seem to be in decline as the freelance economy is growing like never before. You've got your work cut out for you, but if you're passionate, motivated and do good work that's more than enough to make you stand out. Just be prepared for a...

I'm actually impressed with the selection. Not sure what you were expecting. The fonts they selected are a lot more versatile and useful than the wacky display fonts that he does.

Totally agree with your perspective that sometimes you may need to do spec work to compete on the level of your competition. That doesn't make you or your competitors professionals though, and you don't have to be a professional to do layouts and make signs. I might just be arguing semantics but...

This. If you're doing layouts on spec, you're not a professional.

Contrary to some advice given to you in this thread, you do need to print higher than 150-300 dpi. Here's why: DPI is dots per inch. This is how many dots of ink your printer prints. DPI is set in Versaworks by your quality settings (usually with names like Billboard, High Quality, Artistic...

Second font clashes with everything else in the logo. Also, to expand on what OldPaint was getting at, here's a more specific search to give you an idea of just how many times this has been done already: https://www.google.ca/search?q=yoga+tree+logos&tbm=isch