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i've been mulling around looking flatbed printer options for the last two weeks. my shop is 100% rigid substrate at this point and the old diy flatbed jv3 is just too limited. check out this one option. a flatbed jv33 conversion manufactured in china. runs on ergosoft textprint. imagine a...

man that is one clean looking jv3 install down to the metal duct.

me me me! finally converted to CMYKx2 a month ago and my 440 chips are at 1-3.

thanks guys! nothing worse than a printer with a mind of it's own. also poverty can motivate some interesting "work arounds".

buy used! when your business is pumping you'll know it. a more expensive printer will be the way to go. jv3 is a pain to run but a solid machine. roland is a great machine, a bit more expensive not a heavy duty. you should be able to get a really nice machine for $4k.

http://www.digitalprintmarket.com/?menuid=9&categorieid=1&subcategorieid=96&subsubcategorieid=88&advertentieid=3065&adtitel=Print%20Shop%202500%20IAC%20Indoor%20Air%20Cleaner

yeha and stuff from the houston area. i don't want to hear it! i dream of having a building not finished yet. i'm having trouble getting a massive Quonset tent erected in my backyard which will have osb and dirt floors.

lm lc came on to the market back with 720 was the max and for desktop photo printer they used lm lc to cut down on grain in the skin tones and such. the wide format market picked up on it and used it too. even while all the shops were complaining about bad reds or bad blues,,,, they kept...

have you looked at the encoder? i figured the tech already checked that. i'd say if there's something wrong with it, it's more likely that the strip has popped out of it's track than being dirty. dirt causes the y to loose a step occasionally and or constantly causing the print to drift/stare...

??? as in, it's not coming down the line? you cap that line is either not sealing (if you pull at the waste line can you hear air?) or the pump is clogged to that head. (are you running CMYKx2 or lmlc?) or... do you need to know how to get to the ink fill up function?

when you clean the lines. just pop in a cart with about 1/3 solution (you can even use pure acetone for a line, because it doesn't touch anything). put some solvent in a syringe, take off the damper. carefully place the syringe in the end of the ink line (works if you have the larger damper...

i don't think i've read more than 5% of that manual. we'ens out in the country aren't to smart-like about book-readin'.

no test. i just figured you should manually pull out the carriage and look for some odd play/action behavior in the mechanics. if you are having some weird behavior with trying to print a test pattern, i'd figure that there might be something electronically wrong with the printer. if you bump...

it's in the manual. are you using third party ink or ss2? my favorite way to do it is to get a clear cart fill it with homebrew solution. manually clean the lines. when you start the ink chage menu unhook your pumps, then when it says "place cleaning tool" take off the chips to your...

a skull in your graphic means "i thought i was cool in the 2000's". just like checker board in the 80's. or marblized in the 60's. i'll be glad when the whole tattoo piercing thing is over too.

that is really really impressive! very nice work! the ink looks really thick and opaque! i may go back to cmyk if i could get some color like that. with such thick ink is the issue of fading still a problem? my projects go in hospitals and such (indoors sometimes with bright sunlight...

thanks for all the info guys! sounds like all i need to do is bump my budget up a few grand and i'm in with an older machine. that acuity does look good in that i've seen youtube vids of it and it seems to have good visibility. i like to hang over my sheets and see what's going on. also, it...

+1 mimaki pumps last for a long time (years). i bought an aftermarket pump and put my old one back on. still cranking after five years of age. you just have to keep them clean and replace the inner tube about every 2 years.

there are a lot of threads on after market solutions and homemade/homebrew cleaning solution. i'd do a search on the word "cleaning solution".

lay a piece of PETG (maybe polish up the surface of the petg with some car wax) across the flat portion. tape it into place. put the acrylic up on it's edge with the repair facing up and fill it with a non-yellowing epoxy. after cured, sand and buff it out. it won't be PERFECT. but you will...