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grayscale gradient low res, halftone filter, enlarge and sharpen and tile in to a strip.

i've recycled dampers, if they look clean, they shouldn't be a problem. i've stuck dampers in ultrasonic before. that gets them back to brand new. you'll first have to prove which color is starving/banding. put together a file of c m y and k blocks and print them. see if one color looks bad...

recently there was a discussion about a banding issue with the dx4 head that was unavoidable even with perfect calibration. ...think it had to do with some particular pass configuration.

use one single font. doesn't pass the squint test. keep it boring and you'll make more money off of it.

you can also buy the cap tops separately with the little hold downs. that said, i betting you springs are getting a bit weak. take the cyan capping station apart and pull your cyan spring out a bit maybe 1/4" beyond when it tightens to lenghthen the spring. i had to do this after i chased...

i had a head do that once and it cleared up. i blamed it on some heavy ink or something coming down the line. i'd do like mike pro suggested. at least with a data swap, you can start eliminating the issue. also, if you swap black dampers, does the issue go to the other side of that head?

man you should just cut and paste coloradosign's design suggestion. that is a really solid design. maybe send him a few bucks too.

the misplacement of the print test is due to the y coordinate assigned to that slider port. it still thinks it knows where the head is. so that is not an issue. when you did the data swap, did the cyan print properly from the new port and the cyan data cause the new head to miss. ...it...

make sure when you are pulling those dampers just to use gentle upwards force. the head manifold is brittle and will crack... leading to a bad ink leak that will fry your head. glad to hear that you are running.

if nothing dripped or went backwards... and the membrane relaxed. then you should assume that the line is okay and there is no leak at the line. it seems you are a newbie to jv3/solvent repair so it won't be as easy for you to go through this machine and get your colors going. before any...

yeah. just pull the damper and draw the ink from the bottom with a syringe. there are many ways to adapt a syringe to fit into the bottom of a damper. when the ink gets to the damper turn it upside down so that the ink falls to the "roof" of the damper. when it gets to 3/4 full flip it right...

you might be able to get away with that much texture in the back ground if you get rid off all the texture in the text. i'd do some thresholding or do a cutout filter on the deer. make it more contemporary.

i'll pm you back with some ideas saturday. but it does look like there's a lot of easy access at the manifild. that kind of bulkhead set up is really easy to do a plug and play/switchboard kind of modification.

also when you un clamp the hoses, pull the carriage off to the left for a few seconds. otherwise you might siphon off all of your ink into your waste bottle. happened to me.

i'm thinking i just might make a giant cutting mat out of ldpe for my cnc and get that cutting head that goes in the router collet. i don't need super detail. just need parts cut. here's what my awesome gf makes with her cricut.

my gf has a cricut for her fine art collage work. it's a cool little machine. wish there was a giant cricut out there.

oak is not the best wood but there are worse ones out there. if you are going to be finishing the wood, i'd suggest doing a couple "pre-passes" with a sanding clear (i've had to do it in the past routing red wood burl which is very tricky). that will fuse the fibers together a but and the wood...

does a carrier sheet exist for large format plotters? i was also needing to do some large paper cutting projects (48"-60" wide). i assumed that i could make one myself but that doesn't mean the machine can work with it. btw, don't own a plotter, currently trying to come up with the right...

me too and it's a real pisser after you pretty much think you've saved a head. i looked at the print head recovery video lately, and i noticed that they sink the entire head in isopropyl and instruct to let the head set for 24 hours. i did this lately and didn't have a problem. (not that i...

no. all the settings seems to stay put etc. there are many discussions on the yahoo jv3 group about doing this.