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i like riding my daughters aluminum beach cruiser from walmart ($90, weighs nothing, single speed, very smooth bike). this is coming from a guy back in his teens that had a $2000 bmx bike (that's back in the early 80's!), a nice 24" cross country, and a 26". go for comfort comfort comfort...

thanks. i'll call them tomorrow.

when i say "luminore" i mean polymetal. smooth-on has a version of the same. i have a bunch of bookmarked companies on anther computer that do luminore-esque products. the whole system is extremely forgiving. hell, you can make "poly-bronze" by putting bronze powder from the art supply store...

actually i'm looking forward to working with the a polymetal. from what i hear the hardest thing about using the material is learning the "art" of metal polishing. my girlfriend already has a top of the line polishing set up and plenty of experience polishing etched aluminum. so it should be...

so far the brushed aluminum stops with 4x8. the project is interior and will be sprayed with polyester. i'll call dibond directly? grimco says no mill finish dibond or substitute 60" wide, nudo say nu-NO on 60". nothing. thanks for all the leads. i am leaning my client to using luminore at...

well, it's looking like i'm going to cut it out of 3/4" exterior grade mdf then dye and torch it, and then coat the top with luminore. 60" wide mill finish aluminum is not coming up. even grimco seems to not show it on their system. attached is a rendering and a photo of luminore. haven't...

real stuff as in .060 3003 aluminum mounted to .25 black sentra? or real stuff as in dibond? i'm almost considering to the thing in mdf and coating it with luminore.

i'm pricing out a project and it seems that the 5x10 material in dibond and all the substitutes omits the aluminum finish. does anyone know of a similar material that has brushed aluminum or stock mill finish or any raw aluminum skin on it? thanks!

quite booting! you may have some ink inside the ports on your heads, you head manifold maybe leaking because the gasket isn't on straight. you need to do some serious looking around.

i've got a project that i've designed for a client, without really giving much thought to "how" it will be printed or installed. the designs seem to be a bit too complex for vinyl. i figured i'd print these with a double layer of white ink on some kind of film. then hand the prints off to...

@jesse she's a breader! not that i'm having any more kids. that's just what you say down here in texas.

the varathane is surprisingly more solvent resistant that you'd figure it should be just coming off the shelf. the only issue with the waterbased clears is they they don't bite the surface when sprayed. i do some adhesion tests with it a bit to figure out if you need to use any adhesion...

@onthego signguy mountain graphics in houston does all of walmart's stuff, and shell, and too many other giant accounts to list. my girlfriend's dad is the foreman of the shop (factory). it's nuts to see the material they go through in a month. pallets and crates and more pallets by the...

i've run into this a bit. of all things in ended up using varathane (water based clear) in a thicker than usual layer. then lay in the CAB lacquer or UV curable polyurethane (both very hot solvents) thinly in two or three coats. the thinner coats will help the lacquer dry quicker. as far as...

they should take them back. really. whether they knew or didn't know you didn't need them. they were wrong. congrats. hoping to get my replacement head in early this week. so strange for a jv3 to sit silent.

take off that magnet on your cover for one thing and stick it on your cover sensor. that alone might do it. you really need to be able to open the cover during printing. i took mine off. how did the cable thing go? sounded like a nighmare.

no one is going to sell you a manual. pm me your email address. i'll gmail you the manual.

well, if it's jumping then you probably have some kind of vacuum leak. there's a couple of ways to locate the vacuum. i'm not real familiar with the seiko so forgive if i seem oblivious to the machine. one thing is to isolate if the issue is coming from the supply or the cap side of the...

that's not uncommon after a cleaning. sometimes a cleaning actual takes ink particles that were not affecting printing and impacts them against the nozzles. also depending on what was being done with the heads prior, you might have some vapor lock. couple things to look at. one, start...

was reading over all the past and present threads on this. so currently can you give us an update on the vertical banding and separately the horizontal banding? and does this last update mean that it's not just light cyan? but all colors are doing the same thing during printing?