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i'm not sure about roland eco-solve. but i've never seen a single solvent ink that doesn't contain the base material of butyl Cellosolve acetate (and to home brew/mimic that you add acetone to butyl cellosolve)
Butyl Cellosolve Acetate; 2-Butoxyethanol
acetate; Acetic acid, 2-butoxyeethyl...
sure no problem. when you reboot. the machine will think it's 2001. in effect, if you buy or used an "expired" cart that cart will work in you machine because it will assume the cart will not expire for years to come.
you're gonna need butyl carbitol too. actually i quit using the cellosolve all together. there are a lot of threads about diy/homebrew cleaning solution. my favorite is 1 acetone, 6 parts butyl carbitol. just using the cellosolve alone may cause clotting. at least it does with triangle ink...
i've gone through a couple versions so far. the one's with valves were too clumsy. i've got one right now that that has a f-manifold so i am running CMYKx2 with just four carts and four dampers into eight channels. thus allowing the balance of the four spare carts and plumbing to be used as...
i used to have an old crappy encad. it had a bad power supply that would cause it sometimes to take forever to boot. sometimes right away. also sometimes, i'd turn it off and it would take several pushes of the front power button to turn off. but it never booted up by itself. sometimes in...
i somehow doubt the firmware would be the same. ...possibly. i've noticed that if i place a dummy paper width line in my printer just one quarter inch wider than 64" in my 160 it will give a media read error. there might also be voltage differences and stronger motors and such to pull much...
i know nothing about flexi... but don't you need the mimaki firewire driver cd? if you do this cd is a pain in the ass for some service paks of xp. you have to tell it "no, i don't want to restart my computer"...then it does the whole thing over again.... it's detailed out in the read me...
as an experiment. put one of the chips off of a cart you now worked (triangle, mimaki, whatever.... ) if the cart doesn't show up with a transplanted chip that you know has miles to go on it, you can blame the cart design. maybe jv3's are finicky?
there is one set of refillables out there that aren't jv3 friendly. you may have that kind.
... they are straight carts with a slightly large bulged backside. the filling hole is a square plastic piece with a metal ring. i tried these and had no luck. the supplier mentioned that they just...
the way they are installed, ...do they have the ability to expand and shrink? with large substrates the fastening system has to have a large allowance whether it's an exaggerated rabbet or much larger holes than the fasteners need.
so it's in CMYKx2 now, right? ...it's not just the cyan side of the #2 head. it's the entire #3? when you were running the three head config' that third head was pushing lmlc okay prior?
ha! i'm more of an expert on how not to make money. i really can't say. i've got an auxiliary line that i ran through my printer. it was first used as a white ink line. now it is clear varnish line. the same sediment that was in that line from a year ago hasn't budged. and it's had clear...
i'd be a little concerned about the issue of it not printing "well" in production mode. there really shouldn't be a discernible. at least on mine, i can't tell a difference at all. it just zings back and forth faster.
a used printer's value can be all over the map. if it is operating...
first advice... and this one is gold. work in/for a print shop for at least five years. you are entering a saturated market and will be selling that equipment in an auction in two years flat.
if you've worked in the graphic industry, i'd suggest you name off your experience...
that is a ridiculously low price. really $6-7000 is low. at $4k you can make money even if you print three times a month. there are some daily routines that you will have to do. i'd ask around and compare what is best for the jv33. i like to wipe off the wiper, and put a little cleaning...
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