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Power miter, sometimes called a 'chop saw'. You could use a Sawzall, a power hacksaw, a really large band saw, or even cut it with a hand saw. I chose the power miter.

A while back I cut a 54" roll of Phototex into a 30" and a 24". I ran a piece of 2" masking tape around where I wanted to cut and whacked it in two. The downside is that one of the resultant rolls will have the cut side on the right and one will have it on the left. The roll with the cut side on...

If your pricing model is anywhere near realistic then the difference between $.16/ft^2 and $.00/ft^2 should be lost in the grass. Blueprints on a large format solvent printer make zero economic sense, other than as some sort of one off emergency life saver. If you're charging a reasonable amount...

You can get Clear Shield at most any sign supply. I don't recall every seeing one that didn't carry it. It comes in a number of different formulations. I've tried a few and I'd strongly recommend Original Formula. That white pasty liquid most likely was Modge Podge or the equivalent. Used to...

It looks like you need a piece of material ~19'x32'. Go to a farm supply and pick up a hay tarp. They're at least that large and they have grommets installed. Usually they come in silver or black.

Don't use ClearJet on any sort of solvent print. Use Clear Shield Original Formula. Or some other brand of water based liquid laminate. Do not use a solvent based liquid laminate on solvent prints. Thin it until it's the consistency of milk and mop it on with a foam brush. Use alternating...

Here's a data point... On the front nose of my horse trailer there's a full color contour cut full bleed print, solid colors as well as a full spectrum gradient. It was printed and applied in 2004, 10 years ago, on, if memory serves, Oracal 3951, with a Mutoh Falcon Outdoor. There is no...

What's keeping you from running the the image that you have through something like PhotoZoom or any other of the many spline fit resizing packages? That what I did with the miserable little image you originally posted and it came out just fine. You might want to try something like that before...

Just run it. You'll either fix it or break it off. If the former, fine. If the latter, you'd have to fix it anyway.

Why? After an hour there's not going to be anyone left alive to see them.

A while back I applied a pant load of cut vinyl on freshly painted drywall using R Tape Conform, high tack I believe. I used that because it's all I ever use for anything and everything. The walls had a stipple texture so I used a felt squeegee and went over all of the masked vinyl with a rivet...

He looks as if he's constipated and having a bit of a time squeezing one out.

Depends on the glass. Virtually all modern commercial exterior lights use a glass with some level of UV protection and/ or tint. Even if it didn't, the thickness of the material provides some level of diffusion. This glass is functionally invisible as long as you're looking from the dark side to...

Foamcore, Coroplast, Sintra, whatever. Cut out with a Cutawl. Trying to do it with some sort of knife is just beating up on yourself. Once you use a Cutawl you'll wonder where it's been all your life.

If you want it to look as it it were airbrushed directly on the substrate then airbrush it directly on the substrate. Printing and applying a decal, not matter what materials, not matter what quality of print, not matter how it's clear coated, it's not going to look as if it were painted on...

That's interesting. My Flexi/FC7000 always moves to the origin and then starts a diagonal scan from there. Thus if I set the blade holder in the crotch of the lower right registration mark and do not set the origin to the point as well, the plotter will move to the original origin and commence...

Butt ugly, but probably a font. The 'O's are identical, the top and center pieces on the 'E' and the 'F' likewise. The only thing that would make one think not is the 'A'. It leans to the right slightly, a perturbation common to a hand lettered thick and thicker uppercase 'A'.

If I wanted that particular shape I'd create an outline, save it to a dxf file, and send that file to my local supplier of aluminum laminates. There they would CNC rout it from either 3mm or 6mm Nudo board. They'd call the next day or so and I'd drop by and pick it up. Your mileage may vary...

All background and no content. The typography is reminiscent of an elementary school PTA bulletin.

A couple of years ago I transported my printer from western Colorado to Denver, a 250 mile trip which involves going over the Rocky Mountains via 10,000 ft. and higher passes. There they replaced the head, dampers, maintenance station, etc. fully resuscitating it. I drove it back to my village...