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I didn't build the controller, nor do any of the paint. Only the red letters. It was used as a showpiece and not something for sale or commercial use. Also Nintendo allows people to make it.

Blah all that lawyer crap gives me a headache.

I have a hard time trusting waivers. Like AT&T wanted me to install a banner without a permit. I told them I need waiver to do it. However tha waiver shows that I willingly knew I was putting up an illegal sign and still did it. So even if it doesn't come back on me, I pissed off the county and...

For yourself it's ok, just make sure a UL tech doesn't catch you. Not saleable to the public.

The standard stand off depth is 1 1/2". By making this yourself, putting in LEDs and trying to sell it, you will run into UL violation laws. Also you won't be able to get them inspected because they won't have UL labels.

Very illegal to use and you could be sued by multiple companies. Check to see if the owner of the trailer already has permissions. In some cases if it's a franchise or corporate and have multiple ones, they already hold copyright permissions and you won't need it. If he says he has permission...

Ok I will give both a shot. Thanks

I have a Roland VP540i 54" eco-solvent print and cut. When I print gray or 100% black, under my shop light it is the correct color, but in sunlight or other lighting it has a green tint. Even when I print CMYK 100, 100, 100, 100 or 0, 0, 0, 100 it's always green tinted. Any ideas? My black...

8 hours? I have a VP-540i and it only takes 4 hours and laminating is perfect no gas bubbles.

I am considering getting into vacuum formed manufacturing, but it wouldn't be for a couple years unless I had a big order for it.

http://www.casselpromotions.com/car-top-signs/

So I've been learning about vacuum plastic forming and know how to do it. However I am confused with how to create the object to actually form from. Such as Gemini's formed plastic logos. They have details and at only $84, I doubt they are making a hard copy out of something expensive to create...

I never liked clear transfer tape and still won't use it. It cracks on me. It's also slick and the adhesive doesn't stick well to the vinyl. But to each their own.

Corel X8 still has some bugs. I know when I installed a fresh copy when it came out it had issues but after the recent bug patch, it's great. Try going to the site and downloading the newest patch and update and you should be good. If it's a setting issue, you can go into options and customize...

Printheads will be destroyed if they aren't cleaned or used for a length of time. The ink dries up inside them and in the lines. I would say a couple weeks and they may be totally ruined. Heck I went 3 days due to a power failure and it was a huge pain to fix them, had to do two major cleanings...

dibond is very light and it'll flip up and damage the sign. Lusterboard is heavy and it will still swing just not as much.

I highly suggest using Lusterboard (aluminum on both sides and 1/2" wood in the middle) you can also get it in 3/4". It's great for blade signs and hanging signs. Also since I haven't seen it warp, it is heavy and won't blow like crazy in the wind.

I cut my Hartco sandmask on a Roland GX-24 with 60 degree blade and 210 pressure. Cuts like butter and weeds perfectly.

Can you post a photo? I was always curious if you could sandblast Cedar but never tried. I did try with a different wood and it was a failure.

I wrapped my van with it and it was a failure. The channels didn't stick and look bad and now it's starting to peel and crack after one year.