Search results

I've been using CuttingMaster 2 for 5 years now on my 7000 and find the accuracy amazing. I ran 8- 36" sheets on 30" vinyl yesterday. A 1pt trap on the cutline, over 500 small decals. I registered the first one a let her go. If you can get the vinyl straight to begin with, the machine is great...

I don't see any problem at all with this. If you're using Graphtec's CuttingMaster to set the registration marks any printer will print them. Like said above, just make sure that there's space between the registration marks and the edge of the vinyl so the clamps have room to set outside the cut...

Are you using aftermarket inks or is you black ink over it's expiration date? You said that you used your head cleaner kit 3 times over the last 6 months. Does that mean that you've had this issue that long? If not, have you used it recently? Are any of the jets actually plugged or are they...

No one buys a Mac "TO" run windows. We run Macs because we like them. Their stable, powerful and IF we have to run windows we can with no problem. I'm running Parallels/Windows XP on my Mac Pro. The only app I run there is my RIP for my HP9000s. I admit, Windows is like a foreign land to me...

Google teflon tape. I've bought a roll of 1/2" wide. Still have to slit it which can be a challenge even with a safety ruler.

General Formulations Metro Mark vinyl is made for easy removal. Light tack adhesive and prints well. I've been using it for all of my bumper sticker jobs lately and am totally pleased with it's performance.

I hate corogloss ink. It drys to fast, it spiders like you already know and it stinks. I tried NazDar's series 9800 Poly Plus polybanner ink about 20 years ago and never turned back. Prints wonderfully right out of the can. Durability and adhesion are fine. Dries on the substrate, not in the screen.

I'v lettered them using DacTac, an adhesive backed polyester made for boat sails. It has a very aggressive adhesive and most premasks won't handle it. I actually used sheets of my removable adhesive bumper sticker stock for a premask. Strips of 2" wide regular masking tape works fairly well too...

It's been my go to vinyl for the Edge for many years. You can cut some obscenely small stuff on it. This week was the first time I loaded in my HP9000s for some small decals and it printed beautifully.

I've been using these blades since the 70's, cutting amberlith for my screen films. With the "following" style of the point, I'd think that they'd be a natural for you brush slingers. The point is much more durable than those thin X-actos and they are easily sharpened if your so inclined...

If you're going to try one of the super adhesive vinyls it will still help to flame treat the area with a propane touch right before applying the vinyl. It will burn off the plasticizers which the cleaners wont normally remove.

Last time I talked about the "write off" with my accountant I was informed that the only deduction is for your stock and labor at cost. In other words, you've done the work and handed it to them, it's "written off". at that point. You can't mark it up to a retail amount and deduct it again...

I work 1:1. Whatever I print to cut needs to fit in the plotter so scaling doesn't save anything. One thing you can't do is downscale your file very much as it shrinks the size of the registration marks and may move them too close to the actual cut lines.

If you're getting a Graphtec plotter and designing in Illustrator, using their CuttingMaster plug in works very well. Do your layout, put your cut lines on a separate layer, use cutting master to set your registration marks. Hide the cut layer when saving so it won't print. Print from whatever...

Can you post the file with cut lines visible including page size. It might give us a hint. . .and it might not.

Did you manually create the registration marks or let Cutting Master create them? Your, "just outside the cut line" comment gave me the impression that you made them yourself. If so, my first guess is that they are too close to the cut lines. Just because they're outside doesn't mean that they...

Ditto what Techman said. A pdf will use the artboard as it's final size regardless of the actual graphic elements. An eps will use the actual art as it's final size and ignore the artboard.

Try here/ http://www.partshere.com/online/detail.asp PN. Q6665-60089

I'd invest in a "Printhead Nozzle Plate Cleaning Kit". It's a kit with a protective guard and pads that you soak with a bit of printhead cleaner and park the printhead on it for an overnight soak. I've maintained mine for 4 years with occasional use of this kit. I think that you may have...

The blade holder itself could be wacky. I had all kinds of grief with my first one. I finally bought an "old style" blade holder with the brass end even though Graphtec did replace the OEM plastic one.