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You wouldn't weld this. You need an overlap with a relief.

Look for a new restaurant or store opening and offer it to them for $400. Tell them new it costs $3,000. Some times people on craigslist are looking for things like that. The scrap yard pays more for aluminum, probably $40 for that size. But for me, I would strip out the LEDs and reuse them...

Why use Flexi? I find it very hard to use. Once you go with Corel Draw X7, you'll never go back.

From what I hear about Mimaki, they have the worst tech support.

Because it conforms better and holds up longer, also better quality. Why go into technical details?

Yeah I won't order the DPF 313 anymore. Was good in the beginning, now it's bad print quality and also the feel of the banner is hard and like photo paper, not that soft feel.

I hope the tracing feature gets better.

I use nextdayflyers.com they are quick, very cheap and the quality is unbeatable. Get the matte finish. Simply amazing.

Yeah I've been hunting for hints on the new version also. I can't wait to get it. I really hope they make the layout more like X4, that was the best interface.

That is what happened to me with the Avery MPI2050 translucent, it had a powder feel to it and after laminating, the laminate fell off the sign. Avery tech said it has a top coat and told me that you don't need to laminate translucent.

Never been a fan of Avery and will avoid their products whenever I can. They need to sell to residential envelope labels and all.

You know I laminated Avery printable translucent a couple of months ago and the laminate fell off, the vinyl felt like powder. Never found out what it was.

Don't know what kind of printer you have but it must be awful to fill the drain bottle after one cleaning. I change my drain bottle once every two months, that is with the regular 6 hour auto cleaning and manual cleaning weekly and it's always only half full.

A couple of tests might help. Try doing a super clean (highest cleaning setting) twice. Manually clean around the print heads, clean wiper blades or change it, etc. Make sure there aren't any hairs on the print head or other places. As a last ditch effort, try softly rubbing the printhead with a...

I always prefer using Polycarbonate rather than Acrylic for the substrate, generally you should always use 3/16" thick for box cabinet signs. Unless the sign is over 4' X 8', then I'd use 1/4". As for the material, Oracal makes a great Translucent, the 8500 series. For printable go with Oracal...

I've already tried, nothing worked. CMYK is always transparent, tried clear vinyl over a window, it was an epic failure.

Don't use steel. They rust, are heavy and junk. Change the customers mind and use letter tracks to slide in and slide out the sign. By the way 0.40 and 0.63 is for aluminum, steel goes by gauges.

I recommend 0.80 Aluminum or .125 Aluminum. However if they want to stick with a 1/2" look and feel. Go with Lusterboard. It's 1/2" exterior grade wood in the middle with aluminum on the outside. Plus you put plastic trim on the edging which protects and seals the wood in, giving it a long...

Well also in my defense I did a large job for Army Corps and their requirements were latex paint on their park signs. But they needed a warranty of 5 years minimum. Because the sign company before me used latex paint and it lasted only 2 1/2 years. When I suggested oil based, they loved the idea...

How come Latex peels on wood out in the weather after two years with two coats and scratches off very easily like if you brush against it? Every time I use oil based with a spray gun, it's nearly scratch proof and nothing seems to take it off.