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Pretty low, I just printed 3, 32" x 48" prints a few minutes ago. Ran them at 38. You have to start low when you do your first print to avoid tunneling of the vinyl. Once it's running you can tweak it up a few degrees.

I used Steamline since the early 90's but Live Trace blows it away. Just don't run on auto, tweak the settings and you can pull some great accurate detail out of your raster artwork.

I'd agree with Jim's comment. My Graphtec 7000 is amazingly accurate. I print and cut many thousands of small decals with it. I generally run them as 32" long sheets, than hand cut two sides on the registration marks after the initial cutting to do the final through cuts on my large paper cutter...

Just use Illustrator. Graphtec's Cutting Master Plug in avoids Flexi altogether unless you are using if for a RIP also.

Arlon High Performance here too.

Depending on your quantity, someone with an Edge printer can do them also using the same print order as Pete mentioned screen printing. There's allot of colors on allot of layers to pull this off correctly.

I've been running a 9000 for almost 4 years now. The only real issues I've had were directly related to trying non_OEM ink. I'm amazed with the print quality, even on smaller decals which I do thousands of. It's a great machine in my book.

#360c is real close.

Duplicate your layer and on the new layer select all and fill it with black or any other spot color. Select all in that layer and merge with Pathfinder. That should work for your cut line.

There is a complete Graphtec topic here that you should have posted in. There's allot of information. Here's Graphtec's website with some tutorials also. http://www.graphtecamerica.com/FAQs/cutting_master2.html

You might look here. http://www.partshere.com/hppartslist/hpparts.asp?part=Q6670A

You said that you clicked on a part and deleted it. Which arrow did you use. The solid black arrow would select stacked paths IF they were in the same group. The hollow arrow with the + would only select the top path. Also, if you've run the merge filter on the object, all of your "inner" paths...

You problem may be that you have the graphic AND the cutting layer visible when you send the cut. I know it shouldn't make any difference but it seems to. Click the eyeball on all layers but the cut layer and give it another try.

The designjet that you are considering is not a UV printer, as in UV curable. It's an aqueous printer that uses UV stable inks. You will not be able to purchase "wrap" vinyl for it. Any stock that you buy MUST be pre-treated to accept your ink. If you just throw some honest wrap vinyl in it you...

I think Caldera is Mac, Unix and Linux only. Onyx is Windows only. I'm thinking about giving Caldera a try and getting Parallels off my Mac Pro once and for all.

Gees, I cut 200 feet of 3 x3.5" decals on 30" x 32" print sheets on my Graphtec FC7000-100 last week without a hitch. That's about a roll and a third of Oracal 3164. I set up the sheet in Illy and run them in groups of 5 sheets from my RIp with Cutting Master corner registration marks. I can...

Oracal 3164 is a 4 mil vinylt that we use all the time without premask.

I bought the Printhead Nozzle Plate Cleaning kit when I was getting some overspray also. It's a pad that you wet with cleaning solution and than shim up to contact the print heads and let soak overnight to clean off any dried ink residue from under the heads. It certainly helped mine even though...

Saving it as a tiff won't improve it but it will sustain it. JPEG is a lossy format so if you keep working on a file and keep re-saving it as a jpeg it will degrade. If you work on a tiff and maybe save a copy to reduce file size and print from you probably won't notice the difference.

Firefox, I think your history lesson is pretty accurate except for one oversight and that's called Signpost, written by Max Taylor in 1988. I bought my first Mac CI in December of 88 along with Illustrator 88, Typestyler and Signpost. I bought my 24" Graphtec two weeks, (new tax year), later...