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rapidremover/googone has always been a good way for me to remove sharpie from finished surfaces without "burning" it

VHB tape tabs on backs of letter will hold long enough for 100% silicone or whatever adhesive you use to set. the thickness of the VHB tape also allows for the adhesive to have some substance as well rather than just mashing it thin/flat to the wall. tape paper pattern to wall, and just slice...

there no nozzle wash option that allows you to fill caps & park head for up to 99min? thats what we used to do on our dx4 mimaki and just unplugged the machine to bypass the cleaning cycle and the caps/heads stayed soaking overnight

"test print comes ok" pics of nozzle test or it didn't happen

yeah, but better to get the money and get it taken-back.... than to not get the money, and still get lumped into those able to pay it back.

not to braaaag, but i've yet to be censored online. ....just at the ballot box. #juuuustsayin speaking of, i honestly love the re-emergence of "political discussions" on these forums even though they were ban'd a long time ago. if anything else, we're boosting s101's presence on google...

getting along flew out the window 4yrs ago, but continuing the path of in-fighting won't get us anywhere. People should not be discriminated for the color of their hat, but rather be judged for the content of their instagram. Bonus points for boobs, because I'm a gentleman.

in my limited experiences with paints, anything is possible with the right base.... you may have had issues with one shot bonding with the surface, in which case there would have been a primer/adhesion promoter to be sprayed beforehand. in a jiffy, Krylon paints for plastics is an easy go-to...

you definitely want to paint the letters for exterior use. black expanded foam pvc turns chalky/grey, white discolors as well. I've still slung them up unpainted and its "good enough from down here", but the unpainted faces have ALWAYS received complaints. Even had one set that was supposed...

could have sworn that mcmaster carr or grainer or signcomp would have an aluminum option, but they ALL carry the plastic ones. stainless steel is the only other option i've found

Love how this thread has derailed into people reposting topless pics of me.

i just did limited tinkerer's inspection. I'm sure I could have removed it to look-closer, but started by disconnecting & reconnecting the wires to make sure its not just a loosely seated cable, and cleaned the working parts with a lint free cloth (on my mimaki it was a black stick on the...

$4-6k CNC? you'll spend the whole budget on just the spindle alone. "cheapest" CNC's I've seen, outside of the desktop toy-CNC's that still cost ~$5k, are the build-it-yourself setups like this

you sir, just got a new subscriber! thanks for the vids!

My only thought regarding the liquid laminate, is that heavier coats are more susceptible to cracking...especially when applied to a curved surface or over rivots. Aside from water & solvent based being ideal for their counterparts, I don't have much more to chime-in . I see no reason why the...

you think it might just be as simple as a dirty/stuck limit sensor? once had this issue on my jv3 and it turned out not to be the motor that i replaced, but rather the optical trigger that recognizes the carriage's zero-position.

mounting film or contact adhesive. pick your poison. the only thing that won't work with the foam, is solvents in liquid adhesives that want to eat-away at it. VHB tape would be overkill, but is sometimes nice to use if you want to have that spacer-effect when layering items...

their "hi-tack"(EXS) version is my use-all-phototex as it still has that easy-apply/repositionable characteristic but sticks/holds that much better. their blockout version (OPA/OPASolvent) is also worth consideration, as it also has a slightly higher-tack than the original, but would be ideal...

aye, that resistance you're feeling is most likely what is throwing the error. cleaning should help, worst-case you may have worn-down whatever pads/clips that glide on the carriage rail but chances are that its all just gummed-up full of misc. grime and dragging/skipping across the rail.

no need to print the reggies, just use some clean cut masking/transfer tape & a straight edge to trace the line that you should still be able to see thru. If that's impossible, then just stab the vinyl with a pen tip to dent the 3 points of the line, overlay with tape and connect the dots...