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3rd party inks aren't in business because they ruin printheads.... else they wouldn't have customers for long. Bordeaux has been a trusted brand for over a decade. OEM inks want to scare you into thinking that their price-point is for peace of mind.

its just steel....standard black/gold hss bits with wd 40 spritz's to keep from welding the bit to the corten. cleaning thoroughly afterwards so you don't get hotspots in the rust from randomly introducing oil to the surface.

we make TONS of corten monument signs, adhering letters is silly for this purpose as stated above. Oxidizes fast and would definitely inhibit longevity of adhesion. +1 to securing mechanical fasteners, especially of dissimilar metals, in a gob of silicone as a "gasket" and you should be fine...

+1 to 3rd party inks being viable option. switched my jv3's ss21 inks to bordeaux a loooong time ago, and ran it for a solid 5 years before decomissioning the printer for latex upgrade. no noticeable wear on the printer/printheads, but a slightly obnoxious solvent-odor was the drawback...

if i want to add longevity to any chrome/gold/specialefx vinyl I intend to throw outdoors....I'll laminate with a cast gloss vinyl. it still won't make it last forever, BUT i have plenty of gold/chrome graphics that still look brand-new after 3yrs outdoors and the original longevity of the vinyl...

printing with black-only is certainly an option, but I'm a HUGE fan of applying a custom CMYK profile in photoshop for greyscale images, and set the Black Generation in the GCR to either Medium or High Density or Maximum Density. Anything and everything I throw thru it in a hurry, and just run...

kindly respond that you are not in the business for putting up your liability insurance for someone else's install. they ordered a banner, you provided it, and they can't add terms to a past due invoice. (also remind them of your policy of adding $20 for each month of past-due invoices, and $200...

extremely doubtful. any clear vinyl that would have adhesive suitable for a brick application.... would be so "not-clear" by the time you applied it that you wouldn't see the brick anyways.

i do my zero-overlap seams on the wall. double-layer of painter's tape pre-laid down the middle (faux-cutting strip, protects the wall) apply both tiles utilizing overlap to align, and then a single-cut through both of the layers with a fresh knife blade & straightedge. peel-open/apart, remove...

coro-cutter & shear

when was the wall painted prior to your installation? what kind of paint? got pics? chances are....as in most cases of these types of failures, is that either the paint hadn't fully dried yet or they used a paint with a silicone additive for "stain resistance" which pretty much repells...

what's that last wire run-to? did the sign guys plan a zip-line escape bank robbery during the install?

+1 vecteezy is a great starting point. If there's not enough free stuff for you to access, it provides linked content for pay2play.

cute idea :) instructional videos available on how to download the bitmoji's, but bitmap'd images by design are super low-res. Found this youtube video on how to enlarge & de-pixelate via photoshop ...maybe even finish with some gausian blur. it'll never be clean&perfect like a vector...

at first glance, i want to say that your nip pressure is waaaaaay too high or your initial setup is slightly out of square. i usually compensate for potential issues like this by increasing the print media roll/feed tension, but not the laminate roll/web tension which would cause the...

we still do neon in-house. no doubt, its sexy.... but when you're 15+ft away, and if done right, you wouldn't know the difference. I could explain the cost savings, but that's my salespitch. it would pay for itself in the long-run.

ah.... by "gash down the middle" i think i was referring to the gap between the two nozzle test prints. originally looked like it was just one with a giant "oooh sh*t" down the middle. "now that's a horse of a different color!" there's still quite a few deflected nozzles amongst them all, but...

those heads are in the correct order. we say CMYK, but JV3's are setup as KMCY. black printhead being zero, and the MCY printheads align to it. as far as printhead recovery is concerned, its worth a shot.... majority of the nozzles are a bit deflected and some long head soaks & cleanings &...

neon is awesome, but at that scale you could do a hell of a faux-neon setup with the same pattern and upsell the fact that it will almost never require service AND save you ~65% in energy costs.

issues like this usually come from trimmed perforated material having little "fingers" with very little surface adhesion. all it takes is for a couple to start lifting, and then the sun/weather forces them to curl and then it curls more and more until the corner/edge is shriveled-up/curled-up...