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food for thought. dont just let the steel rust, rapidly oxidize it either before or after install by spraying with a solution of saltwater & hydrogen peroxide. pretty awesome, and less chance of having bird poop/debris dictate how evenly your panels oxidize outside on their own.

cast vinyl colors, we only use 3M. 75yrs in business, and we've been on 3M vinyls ever since there were 3M vinyls. print-ables, however, I am a HUGE fan of Arlon.

ULINE Search Results: Reflective Tape

rubber contact cement bonds most sheets together well. industrial suppliers got the good stuff, by the gallon.

after a couple-year hiatus, to give other employees a chance to attend ISA expo's, I will be making my return! can't wait!

anything my employees ever wet-applied, that had grey adhesive (like controltac), has failed. if i had to apply a controltac circle dead-on.... I would slit the backing twice down the middle, align & tack in place with dbl sided tape on painter's/masking tape, lift a side to apply middle to...

those are illuminated reverse-channel letters (as you can see by the larger stud on each letter, which runs the power) don't just start yanking/prying on them, the studs most likely have nuts/washers on the inside of the wall and you're likely to take the wall down in chunks if you try. "lock...

rent a projector and hire some high school kids, or utilize clients' employees, to "paint by numbers"

congrats Fred!

yeah, I print on yellow reflective. with GREAT success.

your printer's profiles will convert them to a CMYK value unless otherwise specified. set as a spot color, or print with profiles turned-off if trying to print grey's using only black ink.

youtube videos available how to take a print from paper and transfer it to wood with mineral spirits & clear coat it with poly.

especially why i don't like the plastic transfer tapes.... with the paper-based transfer masks, you can always wet it with water for easier peel/release.

i don't use downcut bits, but does anyone think that'd simply be the best option for cutting aluminum with vinyl applied? if anything, as a single pass to start the cut and then switch to an upcut for the final pass(s)? my feeds&speeds are always spot on, but upcut bits are constantly...

what about pre-cut Avery labels that fit-into a desktop printer? basically same stuff we use, but already setup for the DIY home labeler.... most likely available at your local office depot/walmart...

for small type, I cut & weed-out centers, apply graphic with a negative field still around the lettering & remove after the small lettering has adhered to the substrate.

i don't use targets, as my router is just a simple xyz cnc. set home/surface/maxdepth & away I go. if I did, however, I'm sure I could engineer a way to do it.... as I've been able to route sheets with targets that allowed me to flip & realign: assuming you having a vinyl sheet with printed...

i've had success routing the aluminum w/ vinyl face-down. Helps having the bit pulling the vinyl up-towards the aluminum as it cuts, to keep the layers together. Always making a rough pass that's not all the way through the aluminum before the final cut, to minimize the amount of heat/friction...

no way around it unless you want to roll up/down across the ridges and patch the front parts in.... which wouldnt be the worst thing ever since no one will really see your seams. however, i've stretched-in the vinyl with great success plenty of times. no lifting as far as I know. no...

my girlfriend got one of these. has done wonders for me giggidy giggidy :toasting: