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and after all this the installer will toss them in the back of his truck on top of the digging tools and assorted crud.

whatever you charge make sure your not responsible if the plotter fs up the material

Yea, you can do a combo vhb/lexel and make sure you have good coverage and the brick is clean and that will probably work...probably

My first job was for a municipal sign shop. The installers pounded uchannels everyday using a post cap and sledge hammer while standing on a platform on the truck. Hard work and they often weren't straight, but it doesn't matter much for street signs. The normal soil around here can be difficult...

Welcome! Love reverse glass work.

yes

Yes, 080 or even .125, but some of those look like they are vandalized not defective. I would also delete the chain and have one heavy s hook to the tab on the arm, and close the hook.

We usually bond HDU to something like acm to add stability unless it's getting installed flat. Or you can add an angle top & bottom. Some shops cut a groove and insert a t bar.

How long do you think it should last? Even paint starts to fail. Only electric signs I did that lasted were cut acrylic letters pinned to an acrylic face.

You can always add a couple supports and screw the thing to the frame and supports and make it a solid structure.

I've done this a few times using acm with no issues. None were that large but if you bond the seam properly it should be fine. I don't see a difference in wind load between a poylcarb face vs an acm face.

I tried importing your pdf into Omega5. But I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like, a jpg pf the what it should look like would help. On thing that I did see was there were combined elements, the border was combined with the green thing and it seemed like some letters were randomly...

We use the best cast vinyl for these jobs and print cut only if absolutely necessary. Sometimes we use the Gerber Edge for these with a liquid laminate and it holds up pretty well. Like others have said, they are a PITA to work on, if you haven't done them before add 50% to the time you think it...

I would call 3M and ask what they recommend. Or if you don't want to use tape I would call Lord and ask if they have one that works.

How large do you need? Can't beat Gerber sprocket plotters for accuracy and variety of materials.

I go with what WYLD uses, since he makes them for me. It is pretty easy to use and removes cleanly. We have done both trimmed seams and overlap seams, depends on the graphic

"For some reason Gemini no longer sells their Pronto (changeable) letters direct." Really? What would be the reasoning behind that? Doesn't make sense

I was going to say the same, I'm a reseller and in their referral list of resellers. Those fake Gemini sites piss me off.

I didn't see them on Outwater but MBS has them and at a better price than Gyford. Don't know why I didn't think of MBS or why they didn't come up in my searches. Thanks

Quoting a donor plaque project for a good client. Need 1/4" diameter stand offs for the small plaques. So far only found one supplier, Gyford, and they are really expensive and I'd like black ones if possible. Anyone know a supplier that would have them? Thanks