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PS, your jpeg didn't work because you design in CMYK. CMYK jpegs confuse most software.

I start by creating a new RGB document in illustrator. I then open up the swatches toolbox and open up the Pantone Solid to Coated palette and select the colors I need to design with. Do work, save design as a .pdf with a setting of "High Quality Print". Open file in Versaworks, assign media...

Just moved into a studio apartment till I can find something better and my first whole month electricity bill was a whopping $18.

Maybe try making a 12" circle in your graphics software and using that to overlap and do a "cut out" of the sides of your polygons? That seems like it should distort back out properly to straight lines in my opinion.

I print on the the 3M transluscent film that is meant for cutting. Cuts costs and I have not had any issues. Of course you need to know how to print on trans or it will look like crap day and night...

I lay the tape down, then squegee it. Follow this up with a solid crease at the tape line by hand. Then I start in the middle and lay the taped banner down on itself working toward the outside, followed by the other half. Then using my felt squegee I again start in the middle and work one side...

If you can read this you probably won't fit in this car.

I like your design but lose the box around it. A box around a logo is restrictive, makes it look like the company is small and confined, has now room to grow, etc.

I would just use 1" x 1/8" white foam tape.

I have a sub rack a lot like that, however it has a bottom row 50" tall by 90" deep, and a top row that is 26" tall and 90" deep. This is for the full and partial sheets. For eveything else, it is stored in open top boxes. In the back room I have a box for sintra scraps, dibond, aluminum, coro...

Try some 1/8" x 1" wide foam tape. Hit the perimiter and then maybe a few more horizontal strips. Kinda spendy though compared to a tube of liquid nails.

I use a roland sp540v and die cut stickers without killing the cutting strip. With the correct amount of grit rollers, force, and cut passes for the media being used... it is possible to fine tune the cutting with a normal ContourCut to allow your decals to just pop out of the sheet. For...

Buy a good router and template bit and mount to a table you have. Get a master template laser cut, and go to town. We use tape called "semi-permanent" and I can get 50 uses out of the stuff, two or three strips on the master...

Yeah we also are a "Signs & Engraving" shop under one roof. Work orders are split into the two different departments. I get all the sign orders. Another guy gets all the engraving orders. Engraving has three sub-departments: laser, rotary, or dye sub. Most of our work comes from a University so...

Panel saw and invest in a manual corner shear press (or whatever it's called, I'm sure it's out there). 10 4x8 sheets of substrate and a days work.

Heres one: With the background layer and the object layer both selected, go to the Layer menu and there should be an "align" option which lets you align, among other things, horizontal and vertical centers.

Design the sign. Convert all text to curves. Give all objects a stroke with the CutContour color swatch. Save as a .pdf file. Open and Cut Only.

I always wanted to make a tent out of window perf material printed with a nice camo pattern...

Check out the HP T300... http://h30429.www3.hp.com/?fr_story=2385905c8e6a9af0fd98535923938b451c33714a&rf=sitemap

Man, I really need to post up some pics of the manual take-up real I made from the plywood box a gemini cast bronze plaque was shipped in... No joke, use it every day.