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regular vinyl heat settings, i print using the 3650-114 (clear) profile and have not had an issue with buckling.... although the media doesn't load so easily, as the rollers tend to catch/roll it, so I'll usually cut-off 3" of the leading vinyl (leaving the backing intact) and it loads perfectly...

NICE! thanks guys! I just couldn't figure it out, but you've made my monday that much less-painful :)

any ideas?

yes. not all of the variations, however, but I don't see an issue. if you're concerned with the omas, then put some white vinyl on the backing.

OMAS may or may not read it. still won't stop it from printing.

frosted vinyls print GREAT on my 26500. same with my solvent jv3. the slight texture of the vinyl allows for the ink to bite into the material really well.

try youtube... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vC1A7XJPPJc

honestly, if you can't build one of those yourself then you aren't really a sign guy. mannequin + motor + sign + case of beer = done.

did you try google? there's a pretty long discussion on some t-shirt forums, regarding that relic, and getting it to work right. :Welcome:2:signs101:

upgrade away! SSD rocks for faster saves/loads, as well as that warm/fuzzy feeling gained from additional security/durability of your data. besides...it also can eventually be used in whatever computer you upgrade to in the future.

LED's and battery power. done and done. ...or get some fish-sticks and a stud-finder.

i ALWAYS take-up my prints with paper backing facing-outward. Besides ease of rolling out onto a table, it is also nice to know that my recently printed faces have no way of touching anything but the backing of what was printed before it. Also, for short-run lamination, it makes it a heck of a...

disagree. throw all the belgian imagry out the window, keep the subtext, and the logo demanging something that would appear to be the odd beer-out from these: (look at St.Louis & Palm, and then try not to look back at them immediately while browsing over the beers as a whole) added note...

might just be making a reference to any material that doesn't have the corrugated flutes of coroplast. win some points by just asking them their intention, and recommend dibond>gatorfoam for obvious reasons.

.psd only if you want to save your layers & effects for future use, much like .ai files. if you're flattening for production, export or save as a .tiff.

:U Rock: I've only got Lobster, but Lobster 1.4 was an easy find. thanks a TON!

any ideas? or something similiar that I could get-by with? wish I could just redraw this, or at least I will for the logo itself (if need-be), but client wants fonts used in other elements of signage :(

:roflmao: ....on a related note, I just had to put MSDS labels on my application fluid spray bottles. Soap & water, zero hazard. Ugh. Soooo annoying, but luckily Dawn had all the info for me to copy/paste.

inkmed knows what he's talking about, but he can only offer to repair what you feel needs to be fixed. hope you've got yourself a proper diagnosis.

that's hungarian? Sounds like "rupūžė" as Lithuanian for "Toad".