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Awwwwwsummmmmmmm!!!!!!!! Think about the genius that built it. Wonder what he could do with modern tools and electronics?

We do industrial labeling for a client and charge per square inch. It is three tiered dependent on size. I would say you're a tad light on pricing. The smallest units we do are the bar codes and those are a buck a pop at 1 x 1.5.(print/lam)

Find your local waterjet shop and have them cut polished stainless. You should be able to give them a .dxf file. It comes with a liner to protect the finish. Worst case the edges would need to be polished. Last shop I was at the material was around $14 a square foot.

Local sales, but more importantly local service. I don't car who the manufacturer is. They all break down, usually at the worst possible time. And if you don't have a back-up printer you have a boat anchor until help arrives. What will that cost you in revenue and lost client base? Clients...

Excellent tutorial. Thank you for posting

Our SP540 will cut dead accurate when doing a print/cut routine. It will knock out hundreds of labels with negligible drift. Contour cutting after lamination is another story. We limit ourselves to about 5' give or take a shade. We do all our own calibration through the service menu and keep...

Here is the answer you are looking for: Buy the printer from the dealer that is closest to your shop and has certified techs. Do this even if you have to pay more. I learned an ugly expensive lesson ignoring this principle. You can thank me the first time your new printer quits in the middle...

Not to worry. Mosh will get a big CRP check...then off to the 'Vette dealer.:smile:

Work looks super. Just don't care for the photo on the side. Nobody likes to see an ambulance and trying to present a different image/feeling doesn't work IMO. Again not knocking your work. The install looks professional.

Certain 3rd party inks will cause your printer to experience arteriosclerosis. The ink because of its solvent makeup sticks to the inside of the lines and causes clogs and hardening. It is more of an issue on the waste side of the pump. The lines on my printer were actually(to use a...

Forgot to add this: "Never skimp on something you have to look at 8 hours a day".

Check the simple stuff first. Our printer will occasionally "barf" on a print. We remove the ink cart, rock it back and forth and re-install. Sometimes new carts will have an odd pressure build up in them.(Roland inks) Check the damper also. If it is bulged out or sucked flat it is junk...

For VW no IMO. For PS and Ai absolutely. S-IPS panels are the reason Mac's are expensive. I'm at my iMac right now.:cool:

yes

Lexan cuts well with a good holesaw just use a slow speed. For graphics: Reverse print on laminate then laminate with white. Apply to second surface. Done

I've done a number of windsurf sails with good results, but those have been cut vinyl never a print. 2 color decals were layered. Is this a permanent installation? If they expect vinyl to last the life of the sail there are other options IMO.

Never heard of the 1886 part. If I can't find Bon Ami I use Barkeeper's Friend which is a no scratch formula also.

Get a magnifying glass and check the blade. I've put in brand new blades and had the cutting edge come off within a few inches of cutting. Happened one right after another one morning.:doh:

Found my Hotronix draw press on Craigslist. Guy was going out of business. $1800 press for $375. Too many horror stories regarding the "cheapies". I only like to buy stuff once.

Stainless(11-CR-Cb or 18 SR) or Sandvik's 253 MA or Inconel. I used to build industrial pollution control equipment in a former life.lol I learned a lot about high heat/corrosion resistant products. The 253 MA is amazing just not sure how you would get small quantities.