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Are you going to have an industrial look with big visible hardware for the standoffs?

What you use for the graphics depends on the design. Whenever possible I use cut translucent vinyl. If you have to go for a digital print you need a double layer "day/night" print for best results.

or make it 24"

Yes, it a banner type material and some versions are backlit. The main point is it's a large "banner" that can be installed stretched on a frame, eliminating the need for panels.

Some kind of seam is inevitable, especially outside. The only way around I can think of is a flex face.

Those decals that last longer may not be inkjet. You want them to last longer you'll have to laminate.

Are you asking about what to hang the sign from the arm with, or what to attache the arm to the building with? I see a detail for using chain, I prefer a solid strap. And as has been said, a internal or external frame or some form of continuous support is needed. Thru bolting to the wall is...

Easier to use Odd/Even, parking on odd number side on odd number days, even number side even days

Yep, also numerals. Not to mention kerning.

"did you peel the backer off the acrylic from BOTH sides" oh yea, that's been done, had one guy letter right over the plastic backer

A single sheet of dibond/ACM isn't sufficient for a sign that size. Especially between two posts. The budget isn't enough for what it needs.

Like others have said you would use a CNBC to make a form to create the mold. The mold would have to be made from a refractory material designed to withstand the temp in a kiln. The material in a "list" mold is vaporized in the process of being used. I'm sure there are videos and forums for what...

Yep, I use 3M or Arlon cast translucent, good stuff. As for the color, different lamps can definitely make that much of a color shift. If you've ever seen a box with mixed CW and D lamps you know it. But there can be other reasons, the material, the method of face decoration etc.

Don't know what you're using for vinyl, but a good cast translucent lasts a long time and doesn't look like cr*p at night.

Good question Gino, was translucent vinyl used?

I agree about the brackets being fugly. I would use an angle the full length of the sign, similar to what Watson did. Then leave aluminum or cover with vinyl. You can add a little length to the sign for what will be hidden and center on what is visible. For dark color backgrounds I use black...

I would use transfer tape, center hinge, dry. I would make grease pencil marks to follow to keep it on level. One of my guys likes to put own a line of paint tape to use as a straight line to follow, that works too. It's nice to have an extra set of hands when doing these. One to hold one to...

Which printer? I did it twice on a 5000. It's a daunting task, but doable if you are careful and patient.

You will need to make the switch out of tubes, printheads and ink like squirrel said. But the UV is water resistant, I used it exclusively when I ran the 5000s. We did paper posters that were exposed to water spray and they never ran. But his point about using the machine and the money to...

Not all adhesive residue is created equally so we have a variety of removers, first choice is an adhesive remover we get from the Auto Paint supply house. Sometimes other stuff works better. Then a final wipe with alcohol.