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I saw your web page. So are you an events or sports company making your own products with your logo and selling them online? Like if one of my customers bought his own equipment and then selling it instead of buying from a sign shop? You might have a hard time getting someone here to help you...

I would make a pattern and cut your blanks with a jig saw or bandsaw out of plywood or mdf.... look at your router guides that you are going to use and see how deep they are, let that determine what thickness of material to use.

Be careful what is used to make that 'tack' cloth tacky, there are lots of different options, some I would not want to contact my print. We use one of those California Car Duster things, almost like a hand held dust mop.

I paid little more than that for my DeWalt cordless track saw set up and it's awesome. Keep your eye out.

Thule, he may be from Alabama but he does know what a meter is. lol He was just giving the poster a hard time. lol My family has a farm not to far from you between Roskilde and Ringsted.

Not sure how much comparing prices 1/2 way around the globe is going to help you.

I use 99% but I so many instances where companies recommend cleaning with 99%ipa and water mixed 50/50

Bandsaw with very few teeth.

Might look into a track saw by festool or dewalt too. I will never go back to a panel saw.

I don't think that he would have that issue if he just replaced the rheostat and it is still doing it. If it's not the rheostat you would think that it had to be the wiring but if the wiring came loose one would think that it wouldn't run at all because the power wouldn't be traveling through...

You could put downward pressure with the know but DON'T! That particular unit was not designed to be used like that. The only tiny bubbles that you should have would be silvering that should disappear within 12 hours or so. I think that the problem that you are having with US Tech is...

401 also has an unusual way of webbing the laminator as he only uses one of the bars, I definately do mine different on the US tech.

TDF that is correct. You will feel tension on the knobs when you let the roller down, that is from the weight of the roller. When the two rollers finally touch you will feel the knobs spin freely, that is where you want to be to laminate. I have the 600 and couldn't imagine another unit...

One of the key things here is what Fat Cat just said, "until roller height adjustment knobs go slack". There is no pressure adjustment for the main roller, the weight of the top laminating roller does all the work. Also, you could have the tension on the roll that holds the new laminate roll...

Dom Diagonal Bold is close.

+1 Your prints need to outgass. I try to clip mine so they hang vertically to dry, you can also roll them loose and stand them in a 5 gal bucket. Biggest change for us was switching to the 'yard sign tool' by Big Squeegee a merchant member here on signs 101. Now we can mount a coro sign in...

Welcome Lurker.

I would think that if you are using matte finish. A 100% acrylic 'DTM' would work well for them and be water based. It would be the finish of choice on galvanized these days I think. Some of it as exceptional gloss retention too.

We have a very strict policy of test driving all R8 wrap installations to verify that the wind or sudden g-forces applied are not lifting any vinyl edges etc... Now if only one would come in.

If I don't want to charge $65 and it's a regular client I just give it to them. Maybe something like a phone #... It's not worth billing and then they don't think I'm nickle and diming them. the next invoice takes care of it.