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Upon opening an .eps file created in Illustrator, the layout has changed. Placed elements, such as .jpg images shift up and over on the x and y. Has anyone else experienced this? What's the cause? Thanks, Miked

Anyone know how to adjust the sensitivity of the mark sensor on a Graphtec FC2250 flatbed plotter? I'm used to cutting material with a gloss white surface, but would like to cut some other media such as reflective or metallic films. Thanks for your help! Miked

I've never had to ship graphics, but have had to store rolls of laminated prints. From what I've read, if the prints are going to be on a core for a while after processing it's best to use a large diameter core; 6", to prevent the material from separating from the liner.

We just got one too. It's the fastest printer I've ever worked with, and the print quality is really good with CMYKLcLm+Gray. What do you think about the take-up? The prints seem to telescope a lot on mine.

I recently purchased a 30" Royal Sovereign for an application similar to yours. The only downside to the smaller "cold only" laminators is that it seems none of them come with take-ups or longitudinal slitters. I made my own slitter assembly and found a universal take-up on the web. The slitters...

You should be able to flex-cut most vinyls by adjusting the different variables in pressure and length. Of course fabrics and semi-rigid substrates would be difficult, but any vinyl and liner combo can be flex-cut in my experience.

I think PhotoTex came out with an opaque version

Air scrubbers take care of the VOCs after they have contaminated the whole room. It's best to trap them at the source, before they have a chance to spread out. I'm running some material that fumes VOCs as it passes over the printer's 3 heaters. I made an enclosure out of flame retardant plastic...

Were they done on a Compucarve?

When I first started out, I used to visit my folks for dinner after work and they made me change my clothes on the front porch before coming in. I couldn't smell it, but they could. I also work in a cloud of laser-cut acrylic fumes though. We print with Solvent Mimaki's and Seikos and the ink...

any of the myriad color-change wrap films could work for you. Try to find a "premium calendared" instead of a cast film to keep the cost down.

definitely use some waste paper between them. If you don't there's a chance that they may get black marks on them from the back sliding over the preceding mag when you stack them

IJ40-c fumes? For those of you who have been solvent printing IJ40, did you experience noxious fumes during printing? We're processing a lot of it with a Seiko M. Due to the super fast print speed I've got the post heater maxed and an IR drier in front of the take up. When the product heats up...

Even the new Seiko M wants you to use the gutter for the above reason. I didn't want it interfering with my print width and talked with a tech about turning it off because I'm using all chanels when printing, but they advised against it. I turned it off, and still have good test draws but the...

Thanks, Sightline!

Anyone have the software required to send the .prm file to a JV33 that Mimaki requires for an extended warranty? Thanks!

Thanks for the tip! Did you have to do anything special to protect the printer's platen, or does the ink stay on top?

Does anyone know where to find a thread about solvent printing on fabric using a Mimaki JV33 with SS21 inks or a Seiko M with Seiko's solvent ink? I'm having a hard time finding a thread this specific. I'm wondering if its because most printers use dye-sub? Thanks, MikeD

I've had the same problem. Sometimes noise can interfere with communication. In my case, an electrical cord crossed the USB connected to a JV33. After trying everything else, I moved the electrical cord away from the USB. Haven't had the problem since then. Good Luck!

Looks like our pneumatic steel rule die press. We use it for simple shapes that get cut in high volume for packaging inserts.