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If you are running a Mutoh just slack the banner in the back those machines page feed have issues with heavy material and the static on the rolls it just wants to struggle and bind up therefore the tunneling.

If you use hanger bars for stability as some other people stated you should be fine.. but I would use something a bit heavier than .150 we use mostly .177 roll stock but like fastmax said we try to stay away from roll stock if we can...

window perf....solvex, clear focus, 3m, arlon all make window perfs. Just check laws some states require different requirements for perforation size 50/50 60/40 70/30 etc. Most states require a 50 percent hole 50 percent material for vehicle graphics. Good luck!

only way you will get that to last on head gear and stuff that takes a beating is to use a good heat transfer material...Siser makes great products for cotton/poly cotton blends.

Again well said....

our walls are covered in signs, samples, and our work. Makes the space look cool, shows people as soon as they come in what you do and what you are about.

I dont understand why you would think they would look the same. Even rolls of the same material out of different lots can look different. Say you have a roll of 3m 180cv3 and want to get rid of it to start a job and finish with a fresh roll. We would never do that white counts and variables in...

what machine are you on, and how old is it. Banding can be caused by a lot of things. You started in the right spots if all of youre calibrations are good it could be you're page feed motor going out. most solvent machines have a mechanical motor that drives the page feed system and if they...

Optically clear is clear so it can be seen thru any person who has laminated perf with 8518 or another gloss lam knows it isnt the same. Using a matte or luster finish is going to defeat the purpose all together.

All it is is a heat/saturation issue. Play with youre setting a bit maybe try less passes etc to keep the pooling down.

I would up the sq ft. price about .5 cents a sq because even tho most textured wall installs are easier to get up initially the heat time is going to kill you. I always add a little room for all the time you spend heating textured wall to get it where it needs to be. Good luck

I would wrap over it, I have done a few old parking spot buses and they have been on over two years and look great. I think it is just a personal thing my advice is if you are going to cut it out sell it that way let the customer know ahead of time what to expect.

All the good art stores in kansas city sell 1shot and Ronan but Kc has a fairly good art scene....Good luck

He is talking about the material needed to check the skew and calibrate the substrate advance. Not the margin before you start printing. We just handle ours well loading it, felt gloves etc will keep the finger prints down. We don't have much issue with tool marks from the load itself any issues...

It sounds to me like you need clear mask. I layer a lot of vinyl and have never heard of this. We just mask with clear, also like previously said some 3m vinyls 360's have a clear liner

We print a lot of Dreamscape suede and usually big jobs that require more than one roll to complete the whole job. The biggest thing with this material is to flip every tile which it sounds like you already are and it is VERY important that if you are doing large jobs that require more than one...

It has the same properties but has a lot more initial tack than 180. 480 is meant to be a more versatile film spanning a wider range of applications so its not as tailored to vehicle wrapping as 180. The higher initial tack makes the film a lot harder to work with in vehicle wrap applications...

Man i still dont get this argument laminate perf with the optically clear laminate that the manufacture calls for. It will leave some streaky looking marks and show some tooling from install for a day or so but will come out after sitting in the sun. I have laminated and installed tons of perf...

If you are cutting them on a plotter you should be able to set them up to perf cut where each decal is kiss cut to shape then perf cut out so all you have to do is pop each decal out of the backing. All the same size all done at one time on the machine. We never hand cut decal jobs unless it is...

The best way to get areas like that to stay down is to try no tot span them if possible or relief cut.