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I would imagine you can probably walk into most any hardware store and buy a blade for cutting plastic. If you can't find one, you want a high TCG tooth count (80+) and a negative rake angle (like -2 or -3 is good). Be careful with a negative rake if you're using it in a table saw or hand saw as...
We're located in Kentucky. We're primarily an HP company, so I'd have to convince a few people. Haha!
Funny thing, we've got two HP flatbeds right now and talking about a third, I've been trying to convince them we need a swissQprint, but that's a very hard sell.
I think his point is that it's better to look prepared for anything than to show up with just a scraper and a spray bottle, even if that's all you need to do the job.
I would second talking to Mike Adams. I spent some time talking with him when I was at another company, he's incredibly knowledgeable and a very, very nice guy. I'm not sure if the company ever went through with the process, as I left shortly after talking to Mike. He knows his stuff.
If you're after color management, my understanding is that Caldera and Onyx are "the best" in regards to profiling.
There are a couple of guys that do nothing but color correction and calibration and they'll come to your shop and calibrate EVERYTHING and get it all as close to matching as...
Having your monitors color correct is useful, but it's not necessary.
You can get your printers to print the exact same colors (by the numbers), within their respective gamuts, but they'll never look exactly the same due to the difference in the UV and solvent inks. A spectrophotometer will not...
I think the answer (from HP) is that it's plasticizer migration in the media, which leads to issues like you're having. It also causes pinch roller marks to be much more visible. If you can clean the material with IPA and it stops doing it, there's your answer. The solution seems to be...
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