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it's worth doing the research and figuring this out yourself. it's not that hard, and next time you get a job like this it'll only take a few minutes.

I've run 3-4m prints through mimakis and summas with great results, but am currently running a Roland Camm-1 and I don't trust it at all. definitely would not even attempt anything half as long as that.

this is the only way i can see this working. spring for the optically clear stuff too.

I don't have Versaworks here to confirm, but iirc at a previous job, if i saved as an illustrator 8 eps, everything worked fine.

"paste-up" works best with a lightweight paper. the link you posted is probably a tad heavy, but i imagine it would still work. "blue back" paper is what you need (the blue back gives it a little bit of block out functionality). I've seen it under many brands, but wouldn't be surprised if it's...

Oh wrong model! they definitely make one that does XY. But yep, they're pricey.

Just send him a bill for the design! If he doesn't pay, refer it to some bad ass debt collectors.

One of these would work, but i don't think your volume would justify the expense. I had one at a workplace a few years back where we were doing 500m+ of printing on 3x Z6200s. Digitrim 20 / 44 / 64

Yep, that's a head strike, it's a pretty common issue if you leave stock in the machine. just advance it 6 inches or so before you start, if it's been sitting. Little ones like this shouldn't damage your head, but it's possible, and it's not something you want to damage, they're expensive.

NOTHING beats measuring it yourself. but getting a photo online, getting the 'wheelbase' measurement from wikipedia, then scaling the photo in illustrator (or your app of choice) is absolutely good enough for quoting. I've even used that method for the final product on occasion (with a load of...

Thanks for the help and the laughs guys. I had thought of the 'screwed in backing plate' solution, but these modern hollow doors are little more than cardboard and sawdust, while i might get a little more grip initially, the sign's just going to end up on the floor again, and the door will have...

We supplied a 400x300x10mm acrylic sign to a customer to install themselves. We'd put a few liberal strips of VHB on it and told them to clean the door etc. 6 weeks later it's fallen off, taking the paint with it. So uh, technically the sign didn't fail, the paint did? We're now trying to...

Personally i'd just hold on to the cutter (unless there's something broken about it? the technology hasn't really changed in years), sell the valuejet for whatever i can get for it and buy an HP latex.

I've started addressing the user "Tecnotronic" directly when submitting id requests at whatthefont. I don't know when he/she sleeps, but my query is usually answered within 10 minutes by them.

I've always upgraded to a better RIP than versaworks, so i'm not to familiar with it. Do you have the ability to measure the colour on the rip, and then adjust the curves? In this situation, that's what i'd do. I'd then save those settings in my job folder in case i ever had to do it again...

I used to run one (with colorgate RIP) and I loved it. It was very slow compared to the roland XJ i ran alongside it, but the colour and quality were streets ahead. I used it for fine art canvas prints and POS things that were going to be viewed up close, or sometimes just because the images...

Take a step back and figure out why your employees don't respect you.

I've worked with mimaki, mutoh, summa and roland cutters, and the summa was the most accurate of the lot. Nothing's perfect of course, but if you're after a new one, get the summa. There are some fancy tricks to split a long cut job into several smaller ones, if you want to work on the overall...

Howdy, I'm using all that, except a roland cutter, not a graphtec. can't get cutserver working on windows 10 (neither can my supplier) I believe we're waiting on roland to update software. Having used summa, mimaki, graphtec and roland cutters, i have to put Rolands software and hardware at the...

Hi there. It probably has to do that to dry the end of the print properly. If you send the jobs all at once, (or even send one while another is printing) it will continue without that gap (at least i found this to be the case with an xj-640 and a BN-20, but all machines work a little...