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take some good straight-on photos, measure it and scale it in your software. You're not always going to be able to find a template, so it's a good method to learn. Also clients love seeing proofs superimposed on the actual car :)

This sounds reasonable. I'm assuming your supplier doesn't do technical support? I'd be on the phone with mine and would have a tech out here within a few hours. (but then, we're under warranty)

Such a cool technique, but yeah the only people prepared to pay for the service seem to be "make everything camo" Hunting nerds. You can buy 'slide-off' decal type prints from china and do small stuff in a sink/bucket for a reasonable price (as long as you want camo, carbon fibre or flaming...

23 years in print&signage, the worst pain has been papercuts, the worst injury was ripping my skin open with one of those big fat staples from the boxes they put the wide format rolls in. I'm a lucky/careful man.

i've seen a guy lose the tip of his finger to one of those. They bite hard.

As long as i can. sometimes that's an hour, sometimes 48. I did the job i was talking about last week. gave it about 90 minutes. had to reposition a few "leaves" at the end, but we were in and out in a little over 2 hours (couple of other little bits on the front door etc as well).

I use that exact setup, except my laminator has an element. I run it at about 40 degrees (celsius) and have never had an issue with that stock. I have had that issue on a different stock, and it turned out to be the 360 profile was laying down too much optimiser.

Thanks guys, i've tried every one of these methods except for the air-release film. I'm looking forward to having a go with that stuff, but this job coming up has to match existing windows either side of it. I'm also yet to try adding ISO to the mix for faster drying, i'm going to have a play...

My problem is i've always wet-applied frosting (usually 3m 5525) , but when there's text or intricate detail involved, it's a real bitch getting the application tape off. there's a billion youtube videos explaining how to do one-piece panels, but not much about this kind of thing. Any hot tips...

i've seen this effect before, i was using a very low-end avery clear and wet-applying it. strangely enough it only happened with wet application. Try another film, i usually just use a laminate. It doesn't have to be "optically clear" (that stuff is expensive) it just needs the "right" adhesive.

I'll always go back to the client in those cases. Just in case the file is sized right but the "requested size" was a typo. If the file is wrong, i'll ask for a new one, or charge for adjustments.

Aha, looks like it started out as rez and got altered. Thanks!

Hey gang, these two have stumped the online tools, but you guys are better than some stinkin' website, right? for the plasterer logo, it's the little one i'm stuck with, i've already re-made the 3d stuff. Thanks dudes!

You need a human being that is confident with the software of their choice. AI will rarely do a good enough job, no matter who programmed it.

From GAC05's link: "The vinyl is extremely conformable making it suitable for use on smooth and contoured surfaces." Sounds like you CAN laminate, and it's probably the best option you have, that or print on a pearl vinyl. There's plenty of brands doing pearl-ish laminates and/or coloured vinyl...

"Nearly possible" is still impossible. if you need fluro, no print is good enough. Cut some vinyl or get some paint dude!

OP might just be confused, for large windows and backlit signs, yes wet apply makes sense. Surely you wouldn't call yourself an 'installer' if you can't do a truck dry, air egress or not....

I once had a corrupt indesign file and ended up sending it to Adobe, and they fixed it! Worth a try, right?

You've actually seen that happen? That doesn't happen with any roll i've ever used.

Nailed it!