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my suppliers give me vinyl swatch books, i take those out, plus the pantone book with the twin columns, the pantone & the cmyk 'closest' match (great tool to aid in explaining why we can print metallics & fluros).

Nailed it Gino!

I don't think i've seen a wide format digital printer that didn't put itself to sleep. not all of them need to self clean periodically (my 360 doesn't) but it's a safe bet to leave them to power manage themselves. all the epsons and rolands i've worked on would do self cleans, and pulling the...

I've run colorgate, onyx, caldera, and versa and would rate them in that order. I only used Caldera for a couple of months at a temp job, and had i got to know it better it may well have moved to the top of that list. Colorgate is fantastic though, especially if you have fussy photographer...

Back in the late 90s, early 2000s, a seperate RIP was absolutely needed. Those things could take an hour or more to get a large file to the printer, and the CPU would be getting hammered all of that time making it unusable for any other tasks. A similar job these days might take a few minutes...

I do my intersections like this, it can make the joins a little less noticeable if the cutter drifts. I've tried 'no-bleed' cutting on summa, mimaki and roland cutters: summa gets a 9/10, mimaki 7, and roland 5. If you just have little slivers of white you can trim them off by hand and nobody...

Aw you're a bloody legend, thanks mate!

Anybody recognise this one? the auto-identifiers i tried didn't work (not surprising with a grungy scripty thing) I really don't want to start from scratch on this :/ Cheers from New Zealand :)

White ink is awful to work with, especially if you only use it occasionally (it's notorious for clogging). Unless my printer was running non-stop, printing white every day... i'd get someone else to print those rare jobs. On the other hand, if nobody else in town has the technology, you can be...

There's no long-lasting vinyl solution. I'd paint it if i were you.

Frank is right! i've used all brands of cutters and nothing beats a Summa.

I've used 'em all, and have Roland Camm-1 at my current workplace. IT IS THE WORST P.O.S. PLOTTER I"VE EVER USED.

That was hilarious. A whole bunch of professionals posting "get the summa", then a salesman turns up and says "Graphtec is the #1 choice of professionals" :D:D:D

are you sure the film is latex compatible? last time i looked there weren't any available, BUT that was 5 or so years ago...

Ladders and two dudes is how we'd do it too, but that's not cool with Sitesafe (kinda like New Zealands equivalent of OSHA). If the clients demanding full safety compliance, they have to pay for height access machine rental, which can double the price of a small job. Meh, whaddyagonnado?

the multiple perspectives hurt my brain. initially i went 'oh pretty picture' but then 'wait the bridge doesn't line up with the path' then 'argh why can i see so much of the top of it' then 'ow my brain' then 'ALT F4, ALT F4'.

I just looked up the last 'black' i printed on my 360, it was c60m60y50k85. the rip has set that value based on an input of 100k, and it looks beautiful and has no uncured spots. A properly calibrated system can absolutely do rich blacks, and it'll always look better than 100k

it's possible, you should be able to comfortably hit 1350. sorry my 26500 knowledge is limited to a colorgate ri[, but check things like margins, space between prints etc. i'm running a 360 on onyx now and can easily get 1350, i never had to change any defaults to make that happen.

I'd personally try and get away with skipping the halftone 'effect'. I think that's more a byproduct of the old printing method than a design feature, and if you explain it that way most clients would be cool with it. Looks like a fun couple of hours work! :)

What machine uses registration marks like that? I'm used to seeing little squares in each corner. Regardless, you should be able to tape some extra stock to end so the cutter can read the marks.