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I'd sort in order or importance 1. physical printer problems; head allignments, bidirectional, full clean nozzle firing 2. where you start using K in the ICC. Start "earlier", IOW lower number for more efficient ink usage. Start "later", IOW higher number for smoother, less grainy printing...

This took quite a turn, didn't it. I was sitting on the sideline and about to order up at $350-400/ea. Then we're back to $700+ "special deal". Nope, thanks.

Search my posts to find instructions on how to do it via Chroma (saturation). You can do it by density and still get good results. But chroma saves a bit more ink.

There are 3 or 4 steps to making a media profile. One is setting the amount of ink that goes used for 100% of each color. This is generally the first step and most people refer to this as the Ink Restriction (not to be confused with Total Ink). The next step is linearization (sometimes called...

It's contributors like you that make boards like this have real value above and beyond the political "discussion" crap.

my black for 3m180v3 avery 1005 ezrs general formulations 201 Here are some examples of typical total ink black for several common materials I've made profiles for here in the shop.

So you're saying if the file is 100k or 100/100/100/100 you get the 88/88/88/100 on the output? If so, sounds like some kind of specific color replacement is happening. Because that is certainly not normal behavior for a conventional ICC. A normal ICC would give you much lighter numbers from...

As Bly says, your color management is working well and doing its job. What you may not like is the results. If your output ICC profile, or Onyx's conversion calculator don't do a good job, you may get some funky output. This could be caused by not using a media model that exactly matches your...

thanks for the laugh. No, it's not a good fit. It's a printer for architects, engineers, and CAD folks.

Stop making so much sense, damn you. You'll make this too easy. If I don't make 3 trips to home depot for a simple project I don't feel like I'm really trying hard enough.

That f*&^'n rocks! Thanks for the link. Looks like I need 1/4" and they have the tygon 2075 clear. I'm assuming that's my fit.

BUMP! I'm looking for the same thing. Can anyone help?

Can you tell me please, what is the spec for the tubing in the HP9000 that goes from the ink cartridge to the sub-pump? I have one that's clogged and all I have easy access to is a whole new "assembly". Hate to replace the whole thing when all it needs is the stupid tube replaced. If possible...

I'd like to see an answer to this question as well. I've searched the manual several times and see no reference to this adjustment.

+1 I've been an Onyx user for 10+ years and have used all major RIPs on the market as a color management trainer and consultant.....Caldera is the best right now.....by far. I just switched and am still getting familiar. But I'm loving it so far. Using Visual RIP+. One mac station, one pure...

Start with the mirror to find inspiration and discipline. The rest is simple education. Find something that you feel is fun. A martial art, cycling, lifting weights, crossfit (if you really want to charge it hard), swimming, or quiet walks in the woods. You do need to exercise or you have to be...

If you're printing patches to make your ICC, there should be no color conversion on that print at all. Therefor, it doesn't matter what rendering intent is chosen since it will not come into play.

Once upon a time, long long ago, Gretag made the i1. Then the evil emperor X-Rite ate the kind and gentle Gretag; making the i1 its own! MUUUUUAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA Go with the gretag choice.

try something like.... 5C/10M/0Y/30K

I get a sharp shift with stable output before and after the sun hits that wall. But the panel that prints before or during the shift will not match the next at all....not even close. 10 delta E is obvious to a blind person if you have colors that are grey or close to grey.