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RJ Marx in Wisconsin will typeset it for you for an hourly rate. Or as jfiscus said, use LHF Smalts. It is close but you'll be able to tell a difference. The other problem would be if Pierce did the original graphics, there is a good chance it is their "Gold Star" 23 kt. gold leaf, which only a...

I do a lot of fire trucks, and my general rule of thumb is no polyester films on fire trucks. No matter what you do, they just don't last. Sign Gold is the only one making the small engine turn 22 kt. film, but it is only 1/4" turns which is too small for most truck lettering anyways. Are you...

I don't hear any air leaking, but I haven't taken it apart to check. I cleaned the heads, enabled extra cleaning and ran an alignment plot. Everything checked out. I ran two jobs on reflective this morning, one 8' long and one 4' long. Everything looked great on those. I then ran another job...

I have been meaning to change my profile, but I'm actually running a L25500 latex machine, not the Mutoh. I'm guessing pretty much everything you said still holds true though, because getting the latex inks to dry is normally the biggest struggle

I'm about to run that now to see what happens

These are brand new heads, 75ml fired. I just went through a nightmare with this thing over the YK heads. I ended up replacing the carriage cables, PC board and both heads. It has been printing fine since, but then I saw the end of this long print had the faded black and banding. I just ran...

If it's not one thing it's another. I've been playing with settings and profiles to dial in my colors. I finally got all that pretty close, and ran a long print on reflective (7' long). At the last 8-12" of the print the black began dropping out and you can see banding. It seems like I read...

Will one of the I1 kits on eBay do the job? I messed with it some more today and have a red I'm happy with. I got it to work when I changed the rendering intents for vectors to "'no color correction". That made a huge difference and now the colors are much closer to Pantone matches. On a side...

I haven't tried the highest settings for heat and passes, anything past 12 pass is very slow so I was trying to avoid that if possible. I agree with you though, I think the low ink setting with the limits slightly higher is what I'm needing. I just can't figure out how to change the ink limits...

Just my personal opinion... but I go through a pretty good bit of the "Real Gold" brand, and it is an excellent product, much better than Sign Gold. As far as printing goes, I print on it using a Gerber Edge so I can't really help you with settings for an inkjet.

I have Flexi set for the media, however it splits the print test apart and panels it which I'm pretty sure won't work. I can check the "fit to media" box and shrink it, I'm going to try that today. I know reflective adds another can of worms to the profiling game. But I have a profile that...

I am printing on reflective, both Nikkalite and 3M 680CR. I have not been able to find anything in Flexi that says anything about ink other than the high and low options. I tried to go through the ICC profile creation wizard today, but I hit a dead end when I went to print the linearization...

Sorry I meant to add, the printer is an HP L25500. I guess I could try to run the heat up more, but it's already near the max and these printers have a lot of issues with heat killing the heads. I'm also running 12 pass, the next option is 16 pass which is significantly slower. High ink is just...

So I decided to work on my profiles today to see if I could dial in a better red. Long story, but I worked on it all day and got nowhere. I know I need more ink, but for each pass setting in flexi there is either a "high ink" or "low ink" option. The high ink gives me nice reds, but the ink...

That is exactly what it is. All Leo's Gold materials had to be edge sealed, either with a vinyl overlap or Seal It pen.

That is Leo's Gold material, which came in two versions. One was real 23 kt gold and the other was brass leaf imitation gold. It was 15" punched material and the turns were randomly done by hand across the entire roll, which is why they don't line up with the strokes of the letters. It is hard...

According to Gerber the boards are not interchangeable. Whether that is true or not I'm not sure. I bought an Edge LE yesterday just to get me back going for now, it looks almost the same as the Edge 2 so you would think the boards could be swapped.

That is actually an oddball there. I don't believe it's a Pierce font, it's possibly one of the old Leo's fonts.

Just an update for everyone. After checking volatages and talking to Gerber today, they feel that my power supply is fine and they are leaning towards there being an issue with the big pc board. They quoted over $3,500 for a new board with a $500 refund if I send in my old one. I about dropped...

I replaced the carriage PCA today and once it fired back up it took me back to the "replace printhead" screen. This time, it was showing the #4 YK head instead of the #3. I swapped the two heads and the problem moved to the #3 spot, so I figured that head was bad. I swapped in an old one that I...