Search results

yes 3m primer will help. we always try to avoid sticking to rubber and will never stick to silicon based sealants. but metals are fine, might add a bit of cleaning and fiberglass normally gets a clean and buffing if its oxydized

you eat pea soup you pea, you eat pea soup you pea, you eat pea soup you pea.. its a never ending cycle.

i use push pins. in the front grove push the pins through the crop mark and into the groove. lock it in remove the pins ( this is a very important step) then run a few feet and check the alignment and adjust as needed

did you run your machine out of ink. print a large square of just magenta and do a few head cleanings. see if this helps you

i have never liked cheap customers, i have some wiggle room to help with pricing. i have a few customers i give heavy discounts to if they are willing to help me work the bugs out of a new product line. i refuse to try and find the cheapest possible material. i stock what i stock and it has a...

i would add a bit of tension. make sure its not being mishandled i use brightline material with out issue those creases do look like it was jumbled up at some point.

also if you buy this cheapest possible material. will you use all of it or will you eat the cost of the roll?

might because you have a gutter set up?

i guess i side with texas on this, his eating habits had no bearing on what the other sign shop did. he saw a bad sign and inquired about fixing it. found out later that the install he quoted was for that very sign that the other shop dropped the ball on. not sure who finished the job. but i...

i dont think you can profile colors on the machine, but you can adjust the print factors which is a big part of the profiling. all the feed rates, temps fans and vacuum settings can be done on the machine end

profile editing, depends on your rip, if you use onyx. their profile builder works perfectly for me

in your arms setting. make sure things are set to auto and arms scanning. not sure which setting it is its been a while since i set up my cutter. but it reads all the marks

every place had a slight variation on the same basic file system. one thing i always make sure is in place is a "production" folder. you can have a zillion revisions on the design end. once one of those versions is approved. the designer saves a final production file(s) in the production folder...

i really hate spray adhesives. but they do have their place. now there is a foam board that comes with adhesive on it already, i have used it to mount prints to and it works really well.

i have seen what looks like good prints at first come back after a few years looking like this. minor print issues get exaggerated over time as the light ink coverage fades faster than the heavier ink areas making lines more noticeable.

if you warm up your vinyl to much it will stretch more. so you feed less

i also use 3m 180 for all my print cut jobs. i almost never have an issue till i get to letters less than .5 inch tall. even thats not even always a problem.

wait can we save money by wrapping teeth with vinyl instead of having them filled? think of all the cool designer teeth wraps we can put out.

depends on your rip software. i would do it on the rip end so it doesnt crate values.

i wrap those kinds of buses all the time. the rub rails are easy but will suck up material so print stuff extra long. the way i attack it is to work down to the rail. cut your material and reset it to do the rails and cut again at the underside and attack the flat area. you can go up and over...