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It's a lot to take on, but if you have no one else in your area it could be worth diving into. I'd highly recommend getting certified, the knowledge is worth the price tag. I'm 3M certified, we do a lot of partial wraps, spot graphics, but not many full wraps. Too many others undercutting...

Let me know if you need the service manual, I have a LOT of them covering most of the older 540 Roland models at home... Think I have that one too.

OP's profile says San Bernardino, so he'd need a tech in Cali.

Length is what the feed compensation adjusts. It only takes a few minutes to run the test print and adjust.

For inventory, some shops do enough of one thing, be it decals, banners, road signs, or whatever, using the same materials where you can do inventory planning. Most sign shops are basically job shops. Jobs and materials vary to the point where other than a few of the most used materials, it's...

If you're getting artifacts, flatten and save PDF at size/ resolution before loading it into Rasterlink. If it still doesn't print correct save and send as an EPS. I print more EPS files than PDF, it handles gradients and effects better in Rasterlink, and stays editable, no extra flattened files...

Is it in the feed direction? Run the feed compensation in the setup menu, it'll print a test pattern, change the values till it's correct. Instructions are in the user manual under Media Correction.

That's interesting... I always thought that was more of a "penetrating/ soak in" type product, rather than an overcoat. Learn something new every day :)

It's just doing a refresh. The amount of ink it uses is negligible. It's not a full cleaning cycle, it just turns on, and spits a tiny amount of ink from each head to keep them from clogging, it can do that every hour and you'll never notice it using ink. Like Smoke_Jaguar says, it's more noise...

Holding up to forklift traffic is a pretty tall order. Polycarb laminates are the most durable, I've used them in car dealerships in the past in areas where they get driven over (don't remember off hand what brand), and they held up as long as they needed them to (month or so long promo stuff)...

If you were close enough, I probably would. I've run a lot of different printers/ cutters, and the differences aren't so massive that they can't be figured out if you've spent time working with any of them. Over the past 25 years I've run Encad, Mutah, Cannon, Roland, Fujifilm, now Mimaki...

Mimaki... Printers are real work horses, great quality. As far as cutting goes, like everyone else is saying, a separate cutter will always do better. A printer's main function is to print, so many combos sacrifice a little in the cutting department over a dedicated one, but Mimaki is definitely...

YAAAYY! Head delamination was one of the possibilities I was hoping it wouldn't be for you... Because it's the most costly. Glad you got it running, and learned a bit from the tech, that'll help you out in the long run :thumb:

If your shop already has a laminator and cutter, and buying the print media, a printer is the only missing link. Normally it goes the other way, someone buys a printer only to realize they need the rest, I'm surprised you don't already have one. With your own you can do your own color matching...

Tell me about it... I'm only a couple hundred miles north of them, and it gets waayyy colder :confused:

What key phrases do you need to make me younger... And more talented... And....

Every laminator behaves different and it changes with every product you put on it. What I do to prevent silvering is reduce the roller pressure, and with thick, or some of the problematic lams prone to silvering, I slow it down to let the heat penetrate the lam, the adhesive needs to get warm to...

Stop making me think on a weekend... :oops: As far as things like artwork, logical functions, and predictive text goes, AI is gaining great traction. AI automation in printing is probably on the horizon somewhere. There's a lot of variables for AI to act as a RIP server. Would it act better or...

Yeah, it can be like chasing your tail sometimes, especially when you can't get proper mfgr or dealer support. Good luck with it, hopefully you can get it running or find a service tech. keep us updated.

Usually it's the sensor. Sometimes the screw just comes loose, or the connector isn't seated and they won't read, or it could be bad. It could be something else, but if it works normally when it does read, that's most likely the culprit. I've had to replace them on a Roland, Summa shouldn't be...