Bicycles...............

[Gino]

Oh ya, I forgot to say......Don't become what's known as a "Barney Bolt-On".......one of those guys who buys & installs every bike accessory known to man. You wind-up looking like a geek and your bike weighs a ton.

The only extras I'm getting is a small kit for carrying a tube and a patch kit, a water bottle, small pump and an LED front light and rear light that stays on constant or will flash according to what setting you use. They have a small hard case that I could slip my .38 into and probably put that under my seat. Other than that, I'm not onto the extra things at all.

I just got back from riding my Ross. That was as much fun as I remembered it being. I rode about 2.5 miles and was in sheer heaven. Got back and now realize I'll have to slowly work my way back.

 

[paul luszcz]

You've gotten some great advice from some who ride a lot more than I do, but I'll chip in because I ride a lot like you're planning to; average 45 minute rides that take me about 11 miles, with an occasional 30 or so mile ride.

I ride a Fuji street bike that I bought new in 1982 for $300. When it's in tune, it's still a thing of beauty. I do get passed by guys my age (late fifties) riding much more expensive bikes. They may be better riders, they may just have better bikes. I would love a new bike, because the easier it is to ride, the farther you can go, and the farther you can go (at any given fitness or comfort level) the more you will ride. And of course, the more you ride the more fit you'll get.

I have a slightly different view of two things that others touched on, that I think you should consider. I sit on a $200 seat attached to a $300 bike. It is not wide and soft, it's actually quite hard and thin, with a big hole down the middle, but I almost don't feel it at all. It touches my butt at just a few points and it barely touches me at all. I sit on an exercise bike at the gym and that big wide seat makes me stand and squirm and shortens my ride every time.

The second are pedals and shoes, which were mentioned briefly but I think being able to pull as well as push when you pedal also increase your comfort. You'll use a wider range of muscles and a smoother "spinning" style.

 

[Colin]

The second are pedals and shoes, which were mentioned briefly but I think being able to pull as well as push when you pedal also increase your comfort. You'll use a wider range of muscles and a smoother "spinning" style.

Yup, and if you do get these, practice on a lawn first until "unclipping" becomes second nature. It's not fun to watch beginners come to a stop on pavement forgetting to unclip their cleats from the pedals. Ouch.

 

[Gino]

You've gotten some great advice from some who ride a lot more than I do, but I'll chip in because I ride a lot like you're planning to; average 45 minute rides that take me about 11 miles, with an occasional 30 or so mile ride.

I ride a Fuji street bike that I bought new in 1982 for $300. When it's in tune, it's still a thing of beauty. I do get passed by guys my age (late fifties) riding much more expensive bikes. They may be better riders, they may just have better bikes. I would love a new bike, because the easier it is to ride, the farther you can go, and the farther you can go (at any given fitness or comfort level) the more you will ride. And of course, the more you ride the more fit you'll get.

I have a slightly different view of two things that others touched on, that I think you should consider. I sit on a $200 seat attached to a $300 bike. It is not wide and soft, it's actually quite hard and thin, with a big hole down the middle, but I almost don't feel it at all. It touches my butt at just a few points and it barely touches me at all. I sit on an exercise bike at the gym and that big wide seat makes me stand and squirm and shortens my ride every time.

The second are pedals and shoes, which were mentioned briefly but I think being able to pull as well as push when you pedal also increase your comfort. You'll use a wider range of muscles and a smoother "spinning" style.

Thanks paul...........

You're correct as the type of biking I intend to do. About 45 minutes to an hour round trip. Up and down lotsa hills and some occasional bike trails. I rode for a long time when I was young and the seat thing I will just get used to all over again. In fact, in my short ride earlier today, it only took a mnute or two until that felt comfortable.

As for the shoes, until my legs are broken in a little better, I'm not going with the shoes and straps for two major reasons.

1. I want to get completely accustomed to riding again and don't want my feet locked in that much until I feel 100% confident. In case of a spill or incident of some sort, I want my feet ready fast. When I fall and get back up, I won't heal as quickly as I did 50 years ago. This could take a few days or a few weeks. Again, I was surprised at how much came back to me after only about 30 seconds.
2. This reason is my own thinking. Like you mentioned, anyone will be using new sets of muscles and especially unused ones for some time. I don't want to get shin splints right off the bat and hurt myself. I intend to build up slowly by only doing maybe 5 or so miles a day. After a week or so, I will increase it. Gradually by the end of summer, I want to be around 30 or more miles in a trip. Final goal is around 45 miles at a pop at least every other day.

 

[Colin]

As for the shoes, until my legs are broken in a little better, I'm not going with the shoes and straps for two major reasons.

We're not talking about those (toe clips) we're talking about the type that use a cleat on the bottom of the shoe, which then lock into a special pedal. These are known as a "clipless" system, as there's no clip that wraps around your shoe/foot.

I don't want to get shin splints right off the bat and hurt myself.

You won't get those from cycling, just running sports. But yes, build up gradually.

 

[NEGD]

Didn't see this thread 'til now. As a cyclist of 20+ years, I do have some input.

Good gracious man, that photo is outrageous!

 

[Colin]

Then again, there's something to be said for going slow:


Article.

 

[omgsideburns]

I prefer toe straps (not cages) over clipless.. I've got a set of speedplays just sitting on my shelf.

but to be honest, you need neither if you're just getting started.. just get a bike that fits and has decent components.

 

[Dan Antonelli]

My team has a saying. 'In order to race fast, you need to also go slow.' So true.

Good luck Gino! Be safe out there; lot of morons. Colin can attest to that. So funny, some days I feel safer racing inches apart from 40 other guys going 30mph than I do riding on the shoulder by by myself.

 

[Gino]

Heh-heh..... got it !!
​

Got it I did... and I had it wrong about the price. I added in the helmet, a 5 year plan for ANYTHING that goes wrong, a set of lightweight tools and a kickstand for a total of $826. The LED's, pump, repair kit and extra tube, water bottle and holder and tool kit bag are also included.

I've only ridden about three miles so far, but that's because we had a special guest in for the weekend and I didn't want to take any time away from him. Good grief did we drink alot and have gobs of fun....all of us.

Anyway, here tis.................

 

[JoySigns]

Enjoy! The most important thing is to use it!

 

[Colin]

Good stuff. (You may want to remove the kick-stand to prevent other cyclists from hitting you on your head with their pump - oh wait, that's what the helmet is for). :Big Laugh

 

[Gino]

Hey Colin..... or some of you other serious bikers........

I didn't get a chain or lock set up because the thing will always be with me except if I want to go in a store to buy some extra water or something. At this point, I only plan on short trips like 1/2 hour and work up to an hour. However, if you need to leave your bike for a few minutes... do you lock it or what ??

Jeremy here, said some places don't even have a place to lock your bike and with so many parts being so take-offable..... unless you chain your frame and front and back wheels all together, you might come out to a locked front tire.

Any pointers on this part of non-riding activities ??

 

[signmeup]

You sure that isn't a girls bike?

 

[omgsideburns]

Small U-Lock (6"-8")and the cable w/ loops to go through the ulock.

That way you can ulock around the frame and a pole, and run the cable through your wheels. Or ulock your wheel/frame and use the cable to go around bigger things like trees when the ulock won't fit.

Nothing is bulletproof so what can you do. I only have a big 11" ulock so I rarely carry it unless I plan on being out of sight for more than a few minutes. My bike is so simple no one would give it a second look, plus it's fixed so the first moron to try and hop on it will get bucked right off the first time they try to coast.

 

[Colin]

It never leaves my sight. Period. But I don't use my bike for tootling around, stopping in at stores; rather 1-4 hour solo or group rides (non-stop) and then it gets put away at home.