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Discussion I've owned an HP R1000 since April 2019, ask me anything

MGB_LE

MGB_LE

New Member
RJH said:
Hello everyone,

Feeling a bit chatty lately while working night shifts to keep up with a large job. Wife's running day ops which leaves me alone with my vices and equipment.

Anyway, as the title says we've had an R1000 in our shop since the first few months of US availability. We upgraded from a Scitex FB550 which we owned for a year before the R series was announced and we decided to sell the 550 and upgrade.

Being owner to new tech meant there hasn't been much I could find online when troubleshooting or researching in this last year. Even videos of the machine operating (outside of EU owners) were sparse. There is the HP knowledge center but it's still lacking for the R series.

So I'm here to answer any questions you might have. Maybe this can serve as a future resource for other R1000 and R2000 owners.
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OK, so we've had our Ri-1000 on a trial basis since last month. We use Colorgate 10 and are having mixed success. Our training was all via phoine over a couple hour period. We can't get a good print of our OWN logo or that of our best client. Both contain solid colors. Photographic stuff works well, but solids are a challenge, and support has asked for endless images of sample output. How can you weigh in on your experience with solids?
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
MGB_LE said:
OK, so we've had our Ri-1000 on a trial basis since last month. We use Colorgate 10 and are having mixed success. Our training was all via phoine over a couple hour period. We can't get a good print of our OWN logo or that of our best client. Both contain solid colors. Photographic stuff works well, but solids are a challenge, and support has asked for endless images of sample output. How can you weigh in on your experience with solids?
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What material or all materials? Solids should be doable on most materials and most colours. There can be some challenging colours but I think that's to be expected if you are not running premium quality.
There's quite a few things that can make them go bad. What's your issue with the solids, banding?

Too bad they didn't give you an on-site training..
 
MGB_LE

MGB_LE

New Member
My bad. I was ONE character off. We have a Ricoh Ri-1000 (note the "i") which is a DTG printer, and I misread that you have the HP R1000, so apples and oranges. We looked at the R2000 and really liked it. Ending up deciding on adding an HP Latex 570 to our EFI H1625 instead of replacing the EFI with a R1000 or R2000.
 
Lunar Graphix

Lunar Graphix

Button Pusher
R1000 sold guys, thanks for all the calls and messages.

We had the R2000 installed back in Sept 2020 and it's been excellent. Same high quality with 30% more throughput and 30% cheaper ink.
 
Lunar Graphix

Lunar Graphix

Button Pusher
Hey everyone-

Sorry I've been gone a the last few months. Had our first baby in March :)

Just wanted to report in that since upgrading to the R2000, we've printed 1M sqft and had roughly 12 total hours of downtime in 6 months.

If you're still on the fence about this thing... you should probably just buy it already :)

I can confirm my previous calculations that upgrading from the R1000 to the R2000 has saved us approximately 30% overhead (ink + labor).

The only CON I can think of is that when printing rigid media, it can often take 2 people to run efficiently (when doing many small pieces). For rolls though you can start it and leave which is always nice.

If anyone has questions on the R series let me know!

Cheers
Ryan
 
Brandon708

Brandon708

New Member
Hi Ryan

how is it that you save 30% on inks either the R2000?

I have the R1000 and was considering getting the 2000 maybe next year.
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Brandon708 said:
Hi Ryan

how is it that you save 30% on inks either the R2000?

I have the R1000 and was considering getting the 2000 maybe next year.
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Because they sell you the 5L ink cart for cheaper $/L. But I think hes also saying part of the saving comes from the extra width of the machine.
 
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Brandon708

Brandon708

New Member
balstestrat said:
Because they sell you the 5L ink cart for cheaper $/L. But I think hes also saying part of the saving comes from the extra width of the machine.
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Thanks for letting me know that. I assumed the R2000 took the 3L just like the R1000. I didn't know there was a 5L. I just checked and the 3L = $285 and the 5L =$325. That is a pretty good savings on ink.
 
Brandon708

Brandon708

New Member
Can anyone share how to get 3 pass to look as good as 4 pass? I have been printing yard signs at 4 pass because it looks much nicer than 3 pass. Is there a way to dial in 3 pass so it looks richer?
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Brandon708 said:
Can anyone share how to get 3 pass to look as good as 4 pass? I have been printing yard signs at 4 pass because it looks much nicer than 3 pass. Is there a way to dial in 3 pass so it looks richer?
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You know if you take away 1/4 of the ink laying from an already fast print mode, you kinda get what you ask for.
If your ink limit is already maxed out on the profile then there's not much to do.
Shortly: you wont get 3p to look as "good" as 4p.
 
Lunar Graphix

Lunar Graphix

Button Pusher
Yep you guys figured it out. 3L / $285 and 5L / $325, as well as larger belt width

30% savings and 30% more thru-put. It is no coincidence that the MSRP of the R2000 is 30% more expensive than the R1000 :)

When running at 3p, turn your density up as high as it can go. Also check color profile on your RIP if you're having color matching problems.
And make sure not to use the generic HP profiles. Clone them so you can adjust the settings, and perform a color calibration on the IPS
 
deadline

deadline

New Member
I see some stories about double sided coro or acm having scratches when you flip it because of the thin ink and high heat it sticks to the belt. Have you experienced this?
 
richsweeney

richsweeney

New Member
We recently purchased a Stratojet fb, and are still pretty new to it. However, I do not think we will need a $800 per month service contract.
 
MGB_LE

MGB_LE

New Member
Full circle, we've now replaced our EFI H1625 LED with the R1000, which complements our Latex 570. Loving it so far.
 
MGB_LE

MGB_LE

New Member
balstestrat said:
How do you like it after Efi?
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It's a giant leap over our 2015 EFI which was getting more expensive to maintain: $800 coolant pumps, $4,000 print heads....the $11,500 print replacement of two circuit boards is where we drew the line. Also, our morning startups were getting longer and longer, teasing out good nozzle checks. It became a pain to run, where the R1000 is off and printing fairly quickly after resuming form sleep.
 
R

rollnstns

New Member
We have been running an R1000 for a month. We have issues where the prints are coming out short on the length. started out 1/16" now HP has gotten it back to 1/32" on most rigid substrates. Control IJ40 is coming up a full 1/8" short on the length. I've had HP send two different techs out, and they can't figure it out. After 3.5 weeks we are hearing from them that the machine is printing within tolerance! Is anyone else experiencing this? How a wrong size print be acceptable? They have messed with heat settings feed calibrations on the service side, and it's still not working. I've had a file I printed sent to our supplier, they printed through Onyx and Caldera and were off 1/16" through both software. HP in Atlanta printed through Caldera and it was right on.
 
balstestrat

balstestrat

Problem Solver
rollnstns said:
We have been running an R1000 for a month. We have issues where the prints are coming out short on the length. started out 1/16" now HP has gotten it back to 1/32" on most rigid substrates. Control IJ40 is coming up a full 1/8" short on the length. I've had HP send two different techs out, and they can't figure it out. After 3.5 weeks we are hearing from them that the machine is printing within tolerance! Is anyone else experiencing this? How a wrong size print be acceptable? They have messed with heat settings feed calibrations on the service side, and it's still not working. I've had a file I printed sent to our supplier, they printed through Onyx and Caldera and were off 1/16" through both software. HP in Atlanta printed through Caldera and it was right on.
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I haven't ever seen this. Every machine I have been working on prints just about 1:1 what it's supposed to be. I guess there can always be small differences but not something like that.
So if you print a ACM, the image always comes out shorter than it's supposed to? It should band the image/if you have text that should not have perfect focus, right?
I can only imagine it to be OMAS problem because that is the only thing messing with the feed.

First clean the lens of the omas. It's on the home side under the belt. You don't need to take it out, just lift the belt a little.

Then you can't run it but I would definately want to run diagnostic
50012 - Check OMAS navigability
Based on that there is other calibrations that I'm not sure if have been done (Correctly).
50011 - OMAS navigability calibration
41006 - Media advance calibration I: (phase and amplitude)
41013 - Media advance calibration II: (slope factor and pixel size)



OMAS:
1639076034600.png
 
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