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Discussion I've owned an HP R1000 since April 2019, ask me anything
- Thread starter Lunar Graphix
- Start date
balstestrat
Problem Solver
What was it? I'm very curious because normally it has good precision.
Sansign Printing
New Member
balstestrat
Problem Solver
Hello I am in the market for an R1000 plus we have an aging hp 360 now and a Fuji Acuity (Oce Arizona 350gt). I have read through this thread and some great information here. One question I have is can you make the r1000 print only unidirectional to have the utmost best quality and drop placement when printing to acrylic?
balstestrat
Problem Solver
No.
I think at some point they could be adding 8p-UniDir printmode but only for CMYK. You can't use it for any other printmode or with white.
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balstestrat
Problem Solver
There's no anti static system. I haven't heard any issues with static so I don't think it's an problem.
Sansign Printing
New Member
notorious d.a.d
New Member
Hello,
I'm printing on the R2000. After many tests on styrene, especially .02, we ended up with
curing temp: 160
drying temp: 125
printing airflow pressure: 50
curing airflow pressure: 425
Hope that helps.
balstestrat
Problem Solver
Yeah I can confirm, it seems possible to print on stryrene. It just needs the heat way down, heater way up and low ink load if possible.
Lunar Graphix
Button Pusher
printing styrene is awful but we do run 20, 30 and 40 mil quite often. I find it easier if I die cut my sheets down to near final size first and print small sheets versus full 4x8' sheets.
40 mil prints the best, way less likely to warp and headstrike than 20 mil is. If you print nothing but styrene I suggest getting a UV printer.
Hey everyone on here. We finally bit the bullet and got an R1000. 2 things I am running into and wonder if anyone has any insight.
We run a lot of 2 sided coasterboard .045 and we are having a heck of a time getting registration to line up. On our Arizona it’s never an issue. It seems the image near the alignment bar is bang on but at the end of the sheet it is out about 4-5 mm. We are running 40x60 sheets that are cut extremely accurately square. We have looked at our alignment bar to see if it’s not straight and it may be a bit by about 0.5mm and I know this could translate to being out more at the end of the sheet. Also thinking that heat was playing an issue into warping the sheet maybe we disabled the curing and drying heaters completely to see if that was an issue and it does not seem to be. Wondering if any of you guys have been struggling with registration? If you did how did you get better or almost perfect registration?
Next thing is when running Coroplast 2sided we are getting those little white marks on the side 1 of the sheet after we run side 2. I know there is a bit of a work around putting a holey sheet underneath but wondered if anyone else has found a better trick than this?
Thank you
John
We run a lot of 2 sided coasterboard .045 and we are having a heck of a time getting registration to line up. On our Arizona it’s never an issue. It seems the image near the alignment bar is bang on but at the end of the sheet it is out about 4-5 mm. We are running 40x60 sheets that are cut extremely accurately square. We have looked at our alignment bar to see if it’s not straight and it may be a bit by about 0.5mm and I know this could translate to being out more at the end of the sheet. Also thinking that heat was playing an issue into warping the sheet maybe we disabled the curing and drying heaters completely to see if that was an issue and it does not seem to be. Wondering if any of you guys have been struggling with registration? If you did how did you get better or almost perfect registration?
Next thing is when running Coroplast 2sided we are getting those little white marks on the side 1 of the sheet after we run side 2. I know there is a bit of a work around putting a holey sheet underneath but wondered if anyone else has found a better trick than this?
Thank you
John
balstestrat
Problem Solver
1. There's multiple calibrations to combat this. Seems like something is just out of whack. Assuming you have a perfect board, the registration error should be less than 2mm.
Call up your support to fix it.
Use auto measurement. Other than that, you should always align the A-side to the left and also align the image to the left top corner. Then B-side to the right side and again image to the right top.
2. Lower your heat and vacuum as low as possible. Especially on the curing. All the hot air that it pulls under the belt will make that worse.
balstestrat
Problem Solver
Just few posts up.
Boy, don't i feel stupid. Thanks.
Much appreciated, I will reach out to support for the registration issue and thanks for the tips for the coroplast
Lunar Graphix
Button Pusher
I made these sleds from three layers of 60 point chip board. I drilled holes on each slot so the vacuum can hold down the pulp coasterboard. Set up my file on illustrator with thru cut lines, cut it out on the summa then use the same files for printing as sheets. Works perfect for alignment. Print 15,000-20,000 at a time and don't lose a single one.
As far as actually fixing your alignment, I saw balstestrat answer this and I agree with them. Before you run the calibrations I suggest cleaning the encoder strip with a clean microfiber and distilled water.
