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Not sure what design program you are using, but color format does matter: you will experience shifts in color when the original files is a jpg compared to a CMYK or Pantone. So same color converted to a different format comes out differently in many cases. Are you exporting the file as pdf, eps...

Safety Speed Panel Saw (H4, H5, or H6). An H5 will cut 5' tall panels vertically or can be turned to rip them, and is a good choice. Cons, makes dust. Pros included an option to hook up a vacuum to minimize dust and the ability to cut nice square panels. Different blades may be worthwhile if you...

We pull the liners off as soon as we receive stuff like this so that it can off gas for 24-48 hours - missed suggesting that as the cause. All of your polycarbonate sign faces and roll stock acrylics need to be off gassed for 24-48 hours. I haven't seen a manufacturer spec for 72 hours, but I...

I suspect the face flexed while you were applying this. Works out better if you have some scrap MDO and/or some 4x4s to put under the area you are working on so that it does not flex as you apply the vinyl

I second Fluid Color. The company started out refurbishing old flatbed printers, and when they started offering their own they beefed up some of the parts that can be an issue. The Ricoh Gen 6 heads are a great balance between quality and productivity and reliability - just awesome combination...

We bought the UCJV330 too. We just did not have the volume to warrant the Cannon - the expense upfront and the service contract combined. I agree with Goatshaver on the feed and takeup system. but we usually just let the print hit the floor as we do very little roll-to-roll. Quality is excellent...

We have used a lot of Multi-Grip and really like it. We've used it on wall murals several times with seams and no lifting. My question would be how much overlap are you using for your seams? On big murals we use a .69 overlap. We also apply it with a hard roller to make sure we get good...

Now I see this is the Hood and not the tailgate, so one thing to consider is the heat from the engine might be contributing to the failure. Not much you can do, but you can still find 3M Primer 94 - even 3M says you no longer need it, but this might be a good situation where it would prevent...

Sounds like it was not cleaned properly. A recess like that sound have been cleaned twice with alcohol. Also, was it post form heated after install? FWIW

Check out GMS (Graphic Marking Systems) for lots of hard to find vinyls. We print on foils often.

Mutoh 4 position marks in Flexi. Set up your prints and bleeds, then add your contour cuts. Make sure the contour cuts are not grouped with the printed pieces as sometimes they will not be seen. select what you intend to print and cut and at the top the Contour Cut Mark button should become...

if your shape is accurate, you could create a file with black in just that 1/2"(?) area and print that. It would essentially give you a second hit of ink on the edge without doing so on the face. (If your image bleeds, you could mask off so that only that outside 1/2" prints again.) Just print...

We recently added a UCJV330 Mimaki. We have a Roland XR640 which has been reliable for about 10 years. The Mimaki has been fast and excellent quality. We had a little learning curve with the new RIP software - none of us had used Rasterlink before. The machine does like to sleep and is slow...

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Not much to go on here. What machine is doing the printing and what machine the cutting. Our old Roland requires you to position the marks a certain way and then hit the "Base Point" button, it will cut without doing that but will not read the marks before cutting and cut would be off.

Looks like the ink was still tacky when this was cut. Solvent inks react with the vinyl and need time to off gas - I would suggest printing today and cutting tomorrow if you are not going to laminate.

We use the GF110 Dry Erase Laminate and have never had a problem. We use it over OraCal 3551 Rapid Air (polymeric intermediate) and Avery 1105MPI (cast vinyl), as well as directly on to printed substrates. I think you are having an incapability issue. Try a different base vinyl, maybe a cast...

I really like the General Formulations 226HTR (High Tack Removable - I know, both high tack and yet removable - amazing). We have found there are walls where this is not the best choice, so our default wall vinyl is MacTac Rebel 528 High Tack - sticks to almost any wall. Biggest problem we have...

Probably the best advice anyone here can give you is to buy as locally as possible from a vendor that services that brand. Both Summa and Graphtec are good machines, but when you have a problem, nothing like having the guy who sold it fix it - a national seller might leave you holding the bag...

Interesting that your tech said he replaces Graphtecs with Summas all the time. We had two different vendors tells us that they almost never need to fix a Graphtec but they do have to address Summa problems all the time. Everybody makes a lemon once in a while I guess.