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He's talking about stud-mounting. It's sometimes a better way to go....especially on drywall that has been painted. The formulation of most paints purposely make it difficult for items to adhere to them. You should be fine with tape, but studs are more of a sure deal.

I think it is. It can be done using just the bottom of the pattern, but using top and bottom guarantees accuracy. I tape the entire pattern up, then take a sharp pair of scissors and cut along the top and bottom, leaving just the very tops and bottoms of the letters. If you leave too much, the...

You didn't ask me, but just go with RP45. It's about half the cost of most other VHB's and works great.

Stencil-cut patterns from coroplast, cardboard, etc. are the easiest for installing tape-mounted letters. You typically need to request them if you're having the letters manufactured by others, otherwise you'll probably receive an outline pattern drawn on a paper pattern. If I get those, I cut...

And even the people that are licensed to install don't always get it right. Saw this this morning. They have parking spots blocked off but not the sidewalk. :help If Corona doesn't get you , falling signs will....

Yep. You're not going to learn what you need to from forums, videos, books, etc. You need to go work for a sign company that installs those particular signs and you need to go hands-on next to others that do it for a living. What's your current experience level?

Never know....

It's more of a turret for the M2.

Agreed....I started with one and quickly got a second. When I built my new office, I added a third. I almost always have three of something open that I'm using in conjunction with one another. I'll have art on the left monitor, email on the center monitor and a quote on the right monitor.....or...

Milwaukee diamond core bits from Home Depot work decent. You'll need water or a damp sponge to cool the bit and a wire to clean the debris out of it. Sometimes it's easier to start with the diamond bit, get through the glazing and finish with a glass and tile bit.

Looks nice, but I doubt the city would allow a wall sign to extend above the roofline...

It's just Dryvit sprayed with a Stucco sprayer out of a hopper.

I believe conductivity is the primary reason but wouldn't doubt if the whole structural integrity aspect comes into play.

Not federal work, commercial construction. The builders themselves....Balfour Beatty, Turner, Austin, Beck, Archer, Reed...prohibit aluminum ladders during most phases of construction.

You're correct, but why's that?

I'm with Gino - have a local awning company make a heavy duty cover. Made right, you could leave it attached and it would actually look pretty decent.

Just food for thought: virtually every commercial construction company bans any kind of metal ladder due to conductivity concerns. The metal "Little Giant Type" (multi-position) ladders are great but a fiberglass ladder would be needed on most construction sites. Little Giant makes some of the...

Heard about it but never have done it personally. Mine stay in the van or garage until needed. There's a company or product , can't remember which, called Rainbow something or other that I've seen used but no experience with it myself. Might just be poly under a fancy label....

Most of the OPE from the major brands is pretty well rated. Since you already have Makita tools, I would just get the Makita trimmer. The line in it is probably ok, but I would replace it with Husqvarna Titanium Force. It cuts really nice and holds up really well. Definitely get her some safety...

I've never tried the DeWalt because they don't have great reviews. Same as BobM, I use the Aftershokz Air and love them. They're good for working in areas that you might need to be aware of surrounding voices or noises.